Joined:
June 2012
Posts: 2347
Location: Pueblo West, CO | DaveKell - 2013-01-02 4:00 PM
You will only see the edges of clear vinyl with your nose right down on it. High performance clear is only 2 mils thick so there's barely an edge. I honestly don't know how you can apply decals this small with the wet method. I sent this luthier three left over decals from the minimum order I had to make and he successfully installed two of them so far for the first time in his life with dry method. Also, applying small decals wet on a textured surface would make squeegeeing out the application fluid thoroughly a near impossibility. If you do it that way though, a hair dryer will speed up the process of getting app tape off. You know your terminology, you must have some experience with vinyl signs. I sold all my equipment and went back to hand painting along with my pinstriping. The Texas summer sun causes vinyl failure on a regular basis that makes doing them old school an easy sell for me.
Not signs. I've been building and flying scale R/C model airplanes almost as long as you've been making signs, so this isn't even close to the smallest or most complex markings I've cut and applied.
Like I say, if alignment is critical I use Windex to apply the vinyl. The Windex usually dries in 24 hours, so I haven't had to use a heat gun/blow dryer. I just squeegee out the excess after I apply them, then let them dry for a day and then carefully peel off the transfer tape making sure that all the pieces release properly. This is what I did with the guitar case.
Yes, I can understand why you went back to paint. Generally speaking, it's much more durable and long-lasting than vinyl, especially when the artwork has to sit in the hot sun for any length of time. |
History book ?
