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Joined:
March 2009
Posts: 21
Location: Mass | Hey folks,
I bought a Celebrity CC48 on ebay that I took a chance on. It looks nice but the area between the bridge and the neck is caving in, bracing looks fine.
I was wondering if anyone has tried the JLD Bridge Doctor.
http://www.jldguitar.net/warped_tops/fixtop.html
It might be a long shot but the part is only $23 from Stew Mac.
The only thing I'm wondering about is that the neck has come forward creating this dip in the top.
Looks like this one:
http://www.ovationguitars.com/pics/news/CC44SiCCB~hqp.jpg
Thanks,
-Ugmold |
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Joined:
July 2004
Posts: 766
Location: New Hampsha | Two items spring to mind:
The bridge would have to be drilled because Celebs don't use bridge pins.
The post that runs parallel to the top might not have a flat surface to rest on by the tailpiece. If the bowl is shallow, it's curving in and the strut might slide on the bowl.
But it's only $23. |
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Joined:
March 2009
Posts: 21
Location: Mass | Hey Mitz,
Thanks. Other issue is the post needs to sit against the back, in this case it is right where the rear access hole is. Which by the way is missing as well as everything else they could strip off. No tuners, nut, saddle, preamp, battery cover. I'm surprised they left the strap buttons.
I guess I could "bridge something across the hole. ?
-ugmold |
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Joined:
July 2004
Posts: 766
Location: New Hampsha | Ugmold,
Good news - they seem to have a model that installs with a screw and doesn't need bridge pins.
Bad news - Being an Elite-style, your guitar probably uses a fan bracing system that may not be compatible with this device. This puppy wants a traditional bridge backing pad to snuggle up against and no braces.
But its only $23.
Or post it in the For Sale Section and let the BFLG have at it. |
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Joined:
March 2009
Posts: 21
Location: Mass | I contacted StewMac to see if they thought it might work, they said it really needs to have a tailblock, and yes the one that uses the screw is what I was thinking of using. Clever device, but not for Ovations.
To me it looks like the source of the problem is the neck coming forward. Which I guess would be a neck re-set issue. How could you ever get this neck out of the body???
-Thanks, ug |
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Joined:
April 2003
Posts: 608
Location: Caribou, ME | I wonder if a person could fashion some kind of socket for the bridge doctor rod to sit in, in lieu of a tailblock? I'm thinking a scaled down version of one of those cups that a cello or bass player would rest their end pins in on the floor.
I just got in an Academy and the top has quite a dip/bulge. I don't want to resort to extra light gauge or silk & steel strings, so I'm toying with the thought of a Bridge Doctor. I made one from scratch back in '94 for a Suzuki 12 string but it was big and heavy. Easier to just buy a tailor-made one if I can make it work.
What say ye? |
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Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996
Location: Phoenix AZ | I did this on a celebrity mando, my local luthier had to fashion up something by hand softa like a Bridge Dr. It worked "OK" but was far from perfect. It actually was attached to the hatch door on the back of the bowl. Finally ended up removing the frets where the neck humped over the body and that actually made it quite playable. But came to the realization that I was putting more money into it than it was worth so I dumped it. Lesson learned is that you can do a LOT to improve a situation, but it can also be a slippery slope so it's really good if you have a WALK AWAY price in mind and stick to it. Just like taking a sick pet to the vet. |
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Joined:
April 2003
Posts: 608
Location: Caribou, ME | Okay, here it is:
http://www.angelfire.com/me4/ksdaddy/brdr.html |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2985
Location: Sydney, Australia | ksdaddy, Interesting pictures. So the rod is pushing forward on the bridge from underneath to counteract the twisting forces by the strings pulling on the top. However, doesn't this increase the overall forward pressure on the top (rather than the bridge holding back the string pressure, it is now holding back the string pressure + the rod pressure)? What is the danger of the top collapsing altogether in this scenario? |
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Joined:
April 2003
Posts: 608
Location: Caribou, ME | I can picture the physics involved, but I can't explain it in an educated way. I view the bridge as a fulcrum and the strings are a lever. The rod underneath is another lever, simply there to counteract the string tension.... Like I said, I can't put it into words that make much sense.
Hard to say what exactly will take place. It uses the same concept as the 'off the shelf' bridge doctor, I just simplified it by omitting any threaded inserts that appear to be with the JLD Bridge Doctor. The top was warped so bad I didn't want to get into the position of having things not line up, the likelihood of which increases with threaded inserts. The hole in the bridge block is a little larger than the steel rod so they can be out of line and still engage. The down side is having to go inside with a 7/16 wrench.... and because the rod isn't solidly attached (glued) to the end block, I found it wanted to turn, so I also had to go inside with little vise grips to hold the rod steady while I turned the nut....
So far, so good anyway. I tweaked it a bit more tonight, as I began the process of filling the screw hole (pics will be added shortly). |
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Joined:
April 2008
Posts: 2985
Location: Sydney, Australia | Absolutely that's what's going on, but both are pushing the centre of that fulcrum back towards the neck. Given the desire to make the top as thin as possible, but still strong enough, I'd be reluctant to try this on an expensive guitar.
Does anyone know what they do to 12 strings to make them stronger? a) Nothing; b) thicker top; c) different bracing; d) b & c? |
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OVATION CELEBRITY CC 48 top caving in
