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small finish crack repair

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BruDeV
Posted 2006-05-12 9:36 PM (#255361 - in reply to #255336)
Subject: Re: small finish crack repair


Joined:
January 2003
Posts: 1498

Location: San Bernardino, California
Cya tends to soften when it gets hot, so don't get too aggressive with the buffing.
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Tony Calman
Posted 2006-05-13 3:19 AM (#255362 - in reply to #255336)
Subject: Re: small finish crack repair



Joined:
August 2003
Posts: 4619

Location: SoCal
Bruce, I have been fairly aggressive with the buffing but that is with foam and swirl remover (basically polishing).

Mechanical sanding could cause heat. I like the sanding pads, doing it by hand. And, with the highest grit that will have an effect. The pads that I recommended allow wet sanding. StewMac says that you can use 2,000 grit. I use 3,000 or finer. Takes a little more work but you don't create the fine scratches that can be difficult to remove later.

Again, work the glue down, build it up, let dry, then sand, build up, dry, sand, then buff. Bottom line is to have a smooth surface when done.

Only reason I like CyA over the water based is that I am sloppy. When the CyA is dry, I can wipe off the overlay on the top without dissolving the crack fill. If I use a damp rag to clean up the water based glue, it affects the fill also. Again, you need CyA thinner that works with your CyA. Had some that worked as bad as turpentine. Try it out before using.

Course, there are finish cracks that are visible but very tight, smooth to the touch...how do you work glue down into that? Scribe it and it could look worse. I have a CA that is like that...big deal, plays well. Cracks not going anywhere. Buffed them, left them. Even Sophia Loren has a couple of wrinkles, yet a beautiful lady.

So, work on the cracks that are rough or if you think it may continue. Had one where I put some pressure on the inside of the top to open up the crack to get a small amount into the crack. Had used tape on the top at the edge of the crack in case the pressure started the crack to grow.

Maybe I should have mentioned earlier...I always check to see if there was any damage to the top prior to effecting repair. Was this caused by temperature or a loose brace?

A couple of years ago, I had the factory refinish the top of a 1658 Custom Legend 12-string that had been damaged in shipping. At that time it was $350. Of course, the rosette on a CL costs more than one on a Balladeer. Do not suggest attempting to refinish the top yourself. Don't even consider a local tech. From what I have seen, anyone that tried to do it before will not do it again.

Again, matte nail polish allows you to build up the chips that many of the guitars have on the top of the headstock.
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