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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Indiana | I'm curious if anyone has ever tried to put a JLD bridge doctor in an ovation? The 1614 I picked up on ebay was a mixed bag. I was a little disappointed because it was not as clean as it was made out to be. The ad did say 'rusty hinges' on the case but as soon as I saw the case it screamed 'BASEMENT!' Sure enough, that is where it had spent much of its life. The neck and bowl were in great shape. I like the wider neck and string spacing at the bridge. My heart sank as I looked across the top and noticed it was bellied some. I reserved an irrate phone call until after looking inside it and playing it. The braces all seemed solidly in place and it had no vibrations. It sounded pretty good too even though the bridge is tilted (but not lifting) and there are 3 shims under the saddle to compensate. I had remembered reading about the bridge doctor and found a lot of positive feedback on it online. An ovation's construction presents some things you have to adapt to...like no tail block. I called the number on the webpage and had a nice talk with the guy I assume designed and makes them. He said he has installed them on ovations. He was a friendly guy and after speaking to him, I called the seller and sent pics...he said he would refund my money or give me a little back. I took 50 bucks back (total was $250 shipped to my door) and kept the guitar. I like playing this guitar and if I can lift/stabilize the top a little, I should be ok. If not, I'll save all my beer cans and get a new top in a year or so :D
anyone had any experience with this?
thanks... |
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Joined:
November 2003
Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | This issue has been addressed many times...
if the intonation, bracing, action and fretting are cool, I would not do anything to the bridge.
The bridge in that position is really "loaded" under tension, which is a good thing because it is very willing to vibrate and that is what pumps out the sound.
Guitar construction is a balance between being rigid enough to not collaspse under string tension and being light enough to maximize vibration under string tension. A bridge like yours is just right on that line. My guess is it is sounded pretty damn good. |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Indiana | This issue has been addressed many times... funny....I searched under JLD bridge doctor and my post was the only one I found. I was asking for info specific to it...not so much the bellying issue.
You are right though...the guitar does sound good. |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Indiana | ps Jeff...I wasn't trying to be a smartass. I know where you are coming from. Right now the guitar plays great but I have lost a lot of break angle at the saddle from it tilting down and the rear of the bridge tilting up. I don't want things to get any worse. Breedlove puts the bridge doctor in some of their guitars. Some Uke luthiers are making their own (learned a lot there).
peace |
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Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 15678
Location: SoCal | Mark, I've never seen a discussion here on the JLD bridge doctor. I think what Jeff was referring to was discussions on bridges and break angles in general.
Do you have a link to the JDL? While I have no need for one, they sound interesting..... |
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Joined:
November 2004
Posts: 286
Location: North Idaho | StewMac sells them
BRIDGE DOCTOR
I have a Breedlove NW with the JLD, and it is a sound monstor. The top is designed with minimal bracing, and the bridge doctor takes the bulk of the string tension. |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Indiana | JLD website
this was interesting too...
Ukulele bridge doctor
ya, I realize what Jeff was referring to so I just wanted to clarify my first post. It is an interesting concept/device and seems to work well. |
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Joined:
November 2003
Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Originally posted by Mark1960:
ps Jeff...I wasn't trying to be a smartass Never a second thought, Mark...
Let us know if you use one and how it works out. |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 782
Location: Waurika OK | I have used one although not on an Ovation. I mentioned it in a thread a couple of years ago. I think maybe Paul T had some input.
I used it on an Alvarez and it worked very well. To use one on an O you would need to put a block of wood at the end.
It also intales drilling a hole through the bridge to attach the bridge doctor to the bridge in order to pull the belly in the top to a more level position. This might be a turn off to some, a wooden plug is provided to cover the screw.
It was an easy install on the Alvarez but would be more of a challenge on an O. |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Indiana | The block of wood issue can be resolved by simply attaching a wooden drawer knob of the right dimension and profile to the end of the dowel rather trying to attach a block to the body. On some guitars I would not want to drill the bridge but I think I can make it look pretty clean. The plus side is, the bridge will never lift or fly off. This will be my "beater" guitar than can go anywhere. I like playing it and that is what matters to me. It may be a good candidate for a new top some day but if this works, I'll be fine and if not, I'll play her as is ;) |
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Joined:
February 2004
Posts: 1634
Location: Warren,Pa. | I have a Pacemaker with a Bridge Dr.!
I got the guitar on ebay with a lot of repaired past issues, and I keep my fingers crossed. I suspect this guitar had exactly your issue, and the Bridge Dr. did a great job of fixing the problem...BUT...that's one of the things I'm keeping my fingers crossed about.
They installed some sort of a block...looks like a pc. of plywood with Goop between the bowl and the wood. The device pushes against the wood. It all looks functional. But I discussed this with Kim Keller and he mentioned the strong possibility of the bowl pushing away from the wood top at this point. I'm not sure if he's seen this happen or if he's just considered the situation and feels it's a possibility.
So it works for my guitar...and I'm a little nervous. John <>{ |
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Joined:
September 2003
Posts: 171
Location: Indiana | thanks for the feedback, John.....it's the kinda stuff I was looking for. I do know the pressure needs to be spread out over a little surface area. The guy from JLD that I talked to said he has done this with the knob trick rather than attaching any sort of block. he also said to make the adjustments in small increments over a few days to give the guitar time to adjust and only use enough pressure to do the job. With all of the glue I saw inside of mine between (sure glad my FD-14 doesn't look anything like this inside) the top and the bowl, I think it will hold if I don't get carried away. Thanks again...
mark |
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JLD bridge doctor and ovation construction
