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repair question

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Norseman1
Posted 2004-02-02 10:14 AM (#196063)
Subject: repair question


Joined:
May 2002
Posts: 1026

Location: Back in the Valley of the Sun Mesa Az.
hi,

A co-worker has an old 3/4 guitar (no idea of the make). The bridge is totally removed from the guitar. We are going to glue the bridge back on, but I am looking for advice on the glue to use. It has a wood (looks to be spruce) soundboard, and the bridge looks to me to be ebony, if not ebony, it is a stained hardwood. Any way, my co-worker was thinking of using "Gorilla Glue". I am wanting to use Elmer's wood glue, but am wondering if an epoxy might be better?

Appreciate any thoughts.

Norse(novice repair)man1
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cliff
Posted 2004-02-02 10:45 AM (#196064 - in reply to #196063)
Subject: Re: repair question


Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 14842

Location: NJ
I always hear the term "hide glue" used.

Best bet:
Check the StewMac catalog/website.
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Norseman1
Posted 2004-02-02 12:24 PM (#196065 - in reply to #196063)
Subject: Re: repair question


Joined:
May 2002
Posts: 1026

Location: Back in the Valley of the Sun Mesa Az.
will do Cliff.

thanks.
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CharlieB
Posted 2004-02-02 3:27 PM (#196066 - in reply to #196063)
Subject: Re: repair question


Joined:
January 2004
Posts: 648

Location: Florida
Going back and looking at some of the interviews on this site - it says something abuot a 2 part glue, not "epoxy" but something that remains somewhat pliable instead of rock hard.

I'm no expert here, but there is some stuff called Zep Epoxy that fits the bill. Calling StewMac might be better.

I do know that hide glue shrinks with age - probably not the best to use when more modern adhesives are available.

Also, aren't there sometimes some dowels or pins that are used to hold a bridge in its proper place?
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Bailey
Posted 2004-02-03 2:45 AM (#196067 - in reply to #196063)
Subject: Re: repair question


Joined:
May 2002
Posts: 3005

Location: Las Cruces, NM
Norsey

I guess your phone lines thawed out. In the old days wooden guitars were repaired with the type of glues that violin repair craftsmen use that can be softened with heat. That way things can be removed with the application of a heat gun if another repair is needed. Epoxys are usually forever so if another repair was needed the wood would have to be destroyed to separate the parts. A proof of this repair methods value are 400 year old Guarnaria and such violins that have been repaired and sound great today. if they had used epoxy they would have been thrown away 375 years ago as non-repairable. It is the wood parts that are valuable.
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DaveO
Posted 2004-02-03 4:41 AM (#196068 - in reply to #196063)
Subject: Re: repair question


Joined:
April 2003
Posts: 65

Location: Connecticut
With proper wood prep to both top and bridge titebond will do the job just fine. I use it everyday and it cleans up with water also. Just make sure to remove all the old glue from both surfaces or it won't last long. Also, don't rush it as far as stringing it up. Give it a good couple of days to cure.
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