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Joined: January 2007 Posts: 672
Location: New South Wales, Australia | I know this has been touched on before in various threads but can anyone give me advice on the method of cleaning my fretboard.
I am the original procrastinator and never seem to get around to doing these things. I last washed my car in July 2005 so that gives you a bit of an idea. But I'm doing a string change so I thought I'd take the opportunity to give the fretboard a clean up.
I've read about steel wool and even sandpaper!! in one case but I'm worried about going too hard and doing some damage. If I use any of these products do I rub up and down or across...do I need any sort of lubrication beforehand (get your minds out of the gutters :) ) and once it's done can I play the guitar straight away or does it need a few hours to settle down.
The fretboard is rosewood if that makes any difference. |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | ...Or do I need more lubrication Back-hand? :p
Others may say alot of different things, but...
Get some Old English Lemon Oil stuff, and basically follow the directions.
I apply a bunch (not dripping, you know what I mean) and let it sit for a few minutes.
Then wipe it off. Apply more oil, wait... Wipe again.
This time dig into the grooves at the frets with your thumb-nail, and get all that nasty green stuff out. Wipe it dry.
If it still looks dry, if you can still see spots that look lighter than you feel they should be, apply alittle more.
Let it soak in for one-or-two commercial breaks, and wipe off the excess.
While you wait, clean around the nut, tuning pegs, and apply alittle oil to the bridge, just for the heck of it.
Then string 'er up. You should be able to play right away, cuz if you ain't cleaned it in a while, the fretboard should suck up the oil.
And Play Away. :cool: |
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 Joined: August 2005 Posts: 3736
Location: Sunshine State, Australia | At least you can remember when you last washed your car. I can't, which should indicate that I won't be much help to you. :p
And you aren't the ORIGINAL procrastinator... I'm at least 4 years older than you. ;)
You're up late, OMA. |
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Joined: January 2007 Posts: 672
Location: New South Wales, Australia | OK Muzza...I gladly relinquish the title, it's all yours :D
After Jason's oiled neck thread I got to thinking that maybe I should do something about my fretboard despite this sort of thing being entirely out of character for me.
A car is a car is a car is a car but I'd like my guitar to last |
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Joined: August 2006 Posts: 2804
Location: ranson,wva | 0000 steel wool,naptha(zippo fluid) i scub my fretbosrds with 0000 steel wool and naptha and take a toothpic and clean around the frets,wipe the crud off after scrubbing. apply limon oil,let set,wipe off. reapet as needed. i just put some oil on a ran and put on the bridge....jason |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | You're up late, OMA - muzza
Watching music on PBS, doing a websearch to help JC decide which LX to buy.
Should be changing strings and practicing... should be! :p |
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Joined: November 2004 Posts: 4413
| oz - strap the geetar to the roof of the car and drive thru a carwash. Both problems solved. You gotta learn to think laterally..... |
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Joined: October 2005 Posts: 5332
Location: Bluffton, SC | "oz - strap the geetar to the roof of the car and drive thru a carwash."
Good advice. And I know what you're thinking but Schroeder's way is a lot easier than getting the car into the shower... |
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Joined: August 2006 Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | I do exactly what Jason said - normally I use the Dunlop kit, which has fretboard cleaner, fretboard oil, string cleaner, a spray to clean the soundboard and carnuba wax. If it's really cruddy - then Naptha. The 0000 steel wool won't harm the fretboard. |
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Joined: November 2004 Posts: 4413
| I really like the Planet Waves 3 part cleaning system. Great on bodies and necks. With the fretboard I like L:emon Oil - but didn't someone post that Lemon Oil contains a lot of water and shouldn't be used? Even tho it's sold as a fretboard treatment? |
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Joined: November 2005 Posts: 1126
Location: Omaha, NE | Frets.com always seems to have the best answer to questions like these. 0000 steel wool, and a drop of mineral oil if you want it to be shiney. |
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Joined: March 2005 Posts: 12761
Location: Boise, Idaho | I was thinking that lemon oil was acidic and might dry out the fretboard but mineral oil was better. We get into these discussions regularly, but the next time I get around to cleaning the fretboard, I forget what we decided. I used the 0000 steel wool and mineral oil, but got a Dunlop kit for Christmas, so I'll try that for awhile. |
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 Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13997
Location: Upper Left USA | Use the aftermarket fret board oils. It really takes a while to dry out a fretboard. |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | I've had success with this formula.
1)Naptha to clean out the gunk; use a soft towel or a soft tooth brush. Be gentle.
2)Instead of lemon oil, I use Mineral oil for the fret board. Wipe on and off with bounty.
Do it as needed. |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | So what else am I gonna do with this Quart of Old English Lemon Oil?
And it smells so nice! (not really)
I just looked at it, and it doesn't list the ingredients. Just says don't drink it. Duh!
(I guess they don't want you to steal their Secret 11 herbs and spices formula) |
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Joined: January 2007 Posts: 672
Location: New South Wales, Australia | Originally posted by schroeder:
oz - strap the geetar to the roof of the car and drive thru a carwash. Both problems solved. You gotta learn to think laterally..... :D :D :D :D I like it |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 713
Location: Alberta, Canada | What about linseed oil or Linspeed? Anyone got an opinion on these?
Good topic! |
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 Joined: January 2002 Posts: 14127
Location: 6 String Ranch | Wipe it in lighter fluid and set a match to it. Allow to burn for 12 seconds. Then pour a Fosters over it and pat dry with a towel. Repeat as necessary. |
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Joined: January 2007 Posts: 672
Location: New South Wales, Australia | Originally posted by cwk2:
Wipe it in lighter fluid and set a match to it. Allow to burn for 12 seconds. Then pour a Fosters over it and pat dry with a towel. Repeat as necessary. It's nearly 9 0'clock in the morning here so it's a bit early to crack open a couple of cans but once the sun goes past the yard arm I could give this a try :D
Dunno about Fosters though...it's not as popular down here as the advertisers would have the rest of the world believe. |
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Joined: November 2005 Posts: 1126
Location: Omaha, NE | Originally posted by colt357:
[QB] What about linseed oil/QB] Don't use any plant derived oil...they tend to gum up over time.
Remember, the ONLY reason to use oil is cosmetic. It makes the fingerboard shiney. But you are not doing anything for the wood when you put oil on it. The only thing the wood needs is adequate humidity. |
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Joined: January 2007 Posts: 672
Location: New South Wales, Australia | So, Omaha, I don't need any sort of oil? We don't have any humidity problems down here. |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Would running 5 times around the precious instrument ,while chanting " Oooohm " not be able to have it cleansed ??! :)
Vic :cool: |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | You can get Holy Water for FREE at any Catholic Church outta that birdbath thingie... |
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Joined: November 2005 Posts: 1126
Location: Omaha, NE | Originally posted by ozwatto:
So, Omaha, I don't need any sort of oil? We don't have any humidity problems down here. That's right.
And humidity is far more important to the top than the fingerboard as well.
But there's nothing wrong with a couple drops of mineral oil to make the fingerboard look nice. Just don't over do it. |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 713
Location: Alberta, Canada | Originally posted by Omaha:
Originally posted by colt357:
[QB] What about linseed oil/QB] Don't use any plant derived oil...they tend to gum up over time.
Remember, the ONLY reason to use oil is cosmetic. It makes the fingerboard shiney. But you are not doing anything for the wood when you put oil on it. The only thing the wood needs is adequate humidity. Good point! You're right on the gumming up, had forgotten that. Thanks for the perspective.
The OFC...a true source of inspiration and education! :) |
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Joined: May 2003 Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | I have to agree, do not use linseed oil.
I hope you don't mind me disagreeing on the mineral or bore oils applied to the wood, on a yearly or as needed basis. At least, for my guitars, on ebony, rosewood and pau ferro, they've had a beneficial effect. Keeping them at the right humidity seems to be the right thing for the sound board.
Also, I'll join my Viking friend and run around my ovations ... though I'll chant Boom Chug-a-luga, Boom Chug-a-luga .... |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | ( Q ) : ... though I'll chant Boom Chug-a-luga, Boom Chug-a-luga ....
Than U will need that Holy Water, I`M sure that Arthur can get it for U dirtcheap ,though I would use " Lifewater " 60% proof ,if overdone when applied, than take CWK `s advice,...strike a match
and see how the grain gets to stand out,flamed and all,than apply chickenfat to fretboard and strings,for that creamy buttery playing comfort,( coconutoil might do, but our connection in Hawaii would know more about that ) and , it will prevent rusting ..... :)
Vic :cool: |
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Joined: August 2006 Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | I use this chant before striking my head with the fretboard. You have to be careful with jumbo frets though as they may leave indentations. |
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Joined: August 2006 Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | This probably belongs in another thread but how about this for the lobby jam:
The original lobby jam? |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Q : "I use this chant before striking my head with the fretboard. You have to be careful with jumbo frets though as they may leave indentations."
:eek: :D :D :D
Vic :cool: |
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Joined: March 2002 Posts: 1380
Location: Central Oregon | I put a little Dunlop 65 on a soft cloth & scrub it crossways on the fretboart when I change strings. I always get a little dirt off 'em but not much. Mine don't get very dirty & that seems to keep them clean & in good shape. The trick is to wash your hands well after you change the oil in your Harley to avoid the crud buildup in the first place. |
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 Joined: August 2005 Posts: 3736
Location: Sunshine State, Australia | My long lost jammin' buddy finally turned up this afternoon with his Gibson and wanted me to show him how to restring it using the locking method.
When I got the strings off, he got out some 'Kyser Lem-Oil' and polished the whole guitar with it.
I remembered this thread and thought "Why not?" and borrowed some. I did the whole guitar,bare wood AND the lacquered bits. (Looks like the "original procrastinator" title is heading back to NSW) :D
Anyway, I don't know if I've saved her from a fate worse than can be imagined, but GEE! It LOOKS nice? :eek: |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by Nils:
The trick is to wash your hands well after you change the oil in your Harley to avoid the crud buildup in the first place. You m-m-mean, like... with SOAP! :eek: ??! |
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Joined: January 2007 Posts: 672
Location: New South Wales, Australia | Muzza, I'm impressed. How did your fretboard come up? Does it seem slippery or sticky, better or no different? Can you put that stuff on your car :confused: :D |
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 Joined: August 2005 Posts: 3736
Location: Sunshine State, Australia | slippery. It's REALLY slippery on the tuner keys. I put that s@#t everywhere.
Looks great. I mainly notice it on the neck, under my thumb. I didn't feel much difference on the fretboard...
...and sorry, I don't do cars. |
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