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Joined:
April 2007
Posts: 12
Location: TX | I've used the "search" feature, but haven't quite found the answer I was looking for...
I have an model 1121 with the common crack in the top from the bridge to the bottom of the lower bout. The crack is in the spruce, not just the finish, although there is not much separation. Sorry, no photo at the moment.
My question is, does this crack need to be repaired, ie., will it get worse or affect the playability, assuming I keep it hydrated from this point forward, or should I jsut leave it as is?
The crack has been there for a few months and I like the way it plays and sounds currently - I'm not concerned with the looks of the guitar.
If it needs repair, can I get away with stabilizing with CYA, or does it require cleats and/or a splint?
A lot of questions, I know...thanks in advance for any guidance. |
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Joined:
July 2003
Posts: 3111
Location: Nashville TN. | Hi,
I'd get in contact with John B or Kim K at Ovation's Service.
Much would depend on if gapping crack. |
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Joined:
April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | This gentleman can help you..
John.Budny@Kaman.com
Good Luck :)
Vic |
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Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127
Location: 6 String Ranch | measure it and don't worry for a while. Measure it again down the road. If it's grown, send it in. If not let it got a while longer. |
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Joined:
April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Actually,I`ve got an Old Höfner (classical) that has such a crack ( more than ten yrs.),and it sounds good,very good even,I have not done Anything about it,seems to have stabilised :)
Vic
..the Höfner is about thirty yrs. old.. |
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Joined:
March 2007
Posts: 665
Location: Tychy, Poland | i think John will be more happy if his e-mail would not be posted in form recognized by internet worms. otherwise he'll get really a lot of spam. |
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Joined:
April 2006
Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Ah..did n`t think of that..Good point !! |
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Joined:
June 2006
Posts: 7307
Location: South of most, North of few | If you're not a perfection freak like me, let it go and just keep an eye on it. If you are like me.... (Lord help you), send it in to the factory and get it done right. |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Awww! :( Now ya' made me look at my 1121!
Which I was just playing. It has a crack that I'm not sure about. So now I gotta check! (but not until the next scheduled string-change)
I have a 1112 that has multiple REAL cracks in the top, and some kinda cracks in the bowl that I ain't sure about.
But it sounds awesome. So I just play it.
If I ever sent it to CT, they'd probably tell me I need a new guitar!
But it sounds Great!
My point being; If the crack doesn't get any bigger, I'd leave it. :cool:
PS-- I just stabilized all the big cracks in the 1112 with Elmer's Wood Glue, and the guitar seems content. |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 1071
Location: Carle Place, NY | Originally posted by pretzel:
If it needs repair, can I get away with stabilizing with CYA, or does it require cleats and/or a splint? I did a simple CYA repair on a thru-the-wood crack in the top of my old Custom Legend. It held for two years and was still stable when I sent the guitar to the factory for re-finishing and new electronics. The repair had no effect on the re-finish. If you want to do a simple, low cost fix, CYA will work. The good thing is that you can still later on decide to have a factory re-finish. |
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Joined:
April 2007
Posts: 12
Location: TX | Thanks for the suggestions and for helping me make my decision. I'm really happy with the guitar as it is, so I think I wont screw with it, but will monitor the crack (it's a '78 that I paid $75 for at a pawn shop about 10 yrs ago).
I think I may try one of those Planet Waves Humidipaks also. It seems kinda gimmicky, but I've read some good comments about them and it couldn't hurt to experiment to see if they really work. If you haven't heard of the Humidipak, it's a packet for your case containing a chemical that either releases or absorbs moisture to keep the RH at ~45%.
Cheers!
PS - Is it possible to upload an image without having it hosted on a website? |
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Joined:
June 2006
Posts: 7307
Location: South of most, North of few | You can use shutterfly or photobucket (I believe they both are free) and list your photo's there, then link them to the site. |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 143
Location: Shotley Bridge, Northern England | Just to add my 2 penn'orth here.
I recently stabilised a similar crack on my 1758. I used Aliphatic Resin woodglue (I think this is available in the US as Titebond). This is simpler and safer than CA; I simply wet the crack from the inside using a syringe to allow the glue to track into the wood better, then worked the glue in from the soundboard side with my fingers until it is visible from inside the guitar. Then you wipe the excess off the soundboard with a damp cloth. That's the advantage of using wood glue. No problems (or skin loss :eek: ) and the crack is stabilised and sound.
I thought long and hard before doing this, and received welcome advice from Paul Templeman which helped considerably. I'm very pleased with the end result.
HW |
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to repair or not to repair?