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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia |
Hi everyone,
New to this forum but member of many net forums of this sort.
I'm looking to buy my first Ovation (USA) acoustic/electric after nearly 40 years of playing guitars (electric ones mainly).
Action wise - looking for a guitar to be as close as possible to an electric guitar.
Are there any Ovations known to have lower action than others, and thinner necks at the same time?
I'm leaning towards a super shallow bowl.
My budget is about $1000.
Please help!!
Cheers
Doug

Edited by kavalero 2014-07-25 9:12 PM
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Joined: July 2005 Posts: 1609
Location: Colorado | Hands down an EA 68 |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia |
The Viper EA 68 looks like a very interesting guitar indeed, plus the back of body is mahogany .. hmm. |
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 Joined: December 2004 Posts: 1673
Location: SoCal | 
EA68... my favorite in its class. I have many. Lady Noah says I have too many. Seems like folks I know want to buy one for $700 or less, or sell them for $1000 or more. The one above went for $600 back in '05. |
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 Joined: December 2004 Posts: 1673
Location: SoCal | Where are you located Doug? |
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 Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | You have to plug the EA 68 in. Have to. Is that what you want? (Don't get me wrong, I love them. I own one). I wouldn't start with an EA 68 unless you plan on always plugging in.
Most Ovations can be set up to play like an electric. Some necks seem to feel more "electric-like" than others. In my stable, some of these are my 2007C BCS, my 1778RFT, and my Thunderbolt. Interesting enough, they are also deep contour, mid-depth, and super shallow bowls, respectively.
There's a lot of options out there for you. And lots of opinions here.
I really like the 2007C BCS. It's got a really good electric-like feel and great acoustic sound. You can easily find them in your price range.
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | Thank you Noah & bobbo,
The one pictured above looks interesting + its in my favorite Ovation color.
And yes, I'm planing to use the guitar plugged into one of my BF Fender amps
I reside in both Australia (Sydney) and California (St Jose).
Is BCS a deep bowl?
The BCS is not listed here?
http://www.ovationfanclub.com/files/prices.asp
Doug

Edited by kavalero 2014-07-26 2:15 AM
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | The 2007 BCS is the 2007 Collectors' Edition...
The top is Bear Claw Spruce.
The 2007 Collectors' has a Contour bowl
The whole thing looks like this
Although that Elderly one doesn't have really intense Bear Claw.
I owned a 2007 Collectors'... But I didn't bond with the Contour bowl or the VIP.
(now I have three contour bowl guitars, and I still ain't that enthusiastic about it )
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | Thank you Arthur,
In fact I wanted to avoid any deep or contour bowl, so looks like the BCS is out of question however BA68 looks interesting, I have to say.
Another option (because of the bowl) is 1867 Legend, which I suppose has that super shallow bowl.
Thoughts please?
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 Joined: May 2006 Posts: 4232
Location: Steeler Nation, Hudson Valley Contingent | You have loads of choices. The EA-68's are great. And there's not a thing wrong with the 1867 either. If you like the epalette look, you can try to dig up an 1868 Elite as well. There are also the Custom Legends and Elites with the SSB if you like a little bling on your guitar. FWIW, I would pick the EA-68. But you really can't do badly with any of the above. |
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Joined: July 2005 Posts: 1609
Location: Colorado | Bobbo is correct...you always must plug in an EA-68...I didn't think of that...not a good one for noodling with friend around the campfire...but if want an acoustic sound that feels and plays similar to an electric...it could be the one. Not sure if AJ on your continent owns one. Here is decent cut by a decent player playing one: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kh0F2sMcr_4
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 Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | I live a few miles from San Jose. Next time you're here, give me a ring and you can play a few different models and styles to get a feel for what best suits you.
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | Guys, you are great, your help is much appreciated!
Now - I am sure about the bowl size that I want (super shallow, or whatever is called the one in EA 68) ..
I take it Elites and Legends (USA models) were produced in different bowl sizes, correct? Deep, mid and shallow?
Am I correct in saying that EA 68 is all wood guitar, no 'composite' black back like other Ovations?!
Is an EA 68 quieter (unplugged) than an Elite or Legend, or all 3 are about the same?!

Edited by kavalero 2014-07-26 7:21 PM
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 Joined: October 2005 Posts: 4071
Location: Utah | Yes all different bowl depths were made across the years and styles. The EA68 is basically a solid body with the piezo bridge, so it is an acoustic which must be plugged in.
If you mostly will be plugged in, the shallow bowl will sound great. The shallow bowl sounds thin played acoustically (though there are some individual guitars which seem to violate this), so you won't want to perform live with the shallow bowl if it isn't plugged in. If you play for friends and family at parties etc then you might find the shallow bowl too thin in tone.
The mid bowl is analogous to a regular wood box guitar. It feels a bit thinner in body, but the tone is typical of a regular wood body (with the Ovation sound of course). Mid bowl is an excellent compromise. They sound very good acoustically, yet aren't big thick bodies. The case for the mid bowl is the same as for the deep and contour bowls.
The deep and contour bowls do have a fuller and generally louder sound acoustically than the mid. If you play a lot acoustically, you might find you end up preferring a deep bowl.
If you really intend to almost always play plugged in, I don't think there will be a big difference in tone across the different models and years. Primarily the sound is from the piezo saddle. So a shallow bowl will be just as good as a deep bowl. The differences for you to consider would be preamp model and appearance of the guitar. The older guitars (pre-LX) will have heavier necks. Older guitars have different bowl materials, with the newer guitars being lighter. All of the different variations in construction are good, so there isn't any particular model or feature you should avoid for structural or tonal reasons. |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | Thank you for another great advice FlySig,
I will definitely use the guitar plugged in, so, a super shallow bowl is the way to go for me.
Going back to this Ovation models listing
http://www.ovationfanclub.com/files/prices.asp
.. its a bit confusing how many variations of Legend guitars are available.
Its the same with Adamas and Elite models?!?
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Edited by kavalero 2014-07-26 9:59 PM
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 Joined: April 2008 Posts: 2985
Location: Sydney, Australia | kavalero - 2014-07-26 7:10 PM
I reside in both Australia (Sydney) and California (St Jose).
Doug
Hi Doug,
It's much cheaper to buy Ovations in the US. How often do you travel back and forth? Shipping is very expensive.
I'm in Sydney (Hornsby) which side of Sydney do you live in? |
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Joined: December 2001 Posts: 10583
Location: NJ | there are several guitars on my website you should check out
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 Joined: July 2003 Posts: 3111
Location: Nashville TN. | Thunderbolts have real electric necks as does collector model I think 88 ot 89 that used the same neck |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | I have noticed the 'raw' neck finish on number of EA68's.
Are there any glossy necks or all EA68's are 'raw' looking, thanks.

Edited by kavalero 2014-07-30 11:11 PM
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Joined: March 2002 Posts: 15677
Location: SoCal | I believe that's how they were doing the necks at that time..... |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | kavalero - 2014-07-31 2:08 PM
I have noticed the 'raw' neck finish on number of EA68's.
Are there any glossy necks or all EA68's are 'raw' looking, thanks.

In addition, it looks like these guitars (EA68) are not available for sale like other Ovation models.
Any idea where to look for one (apart from flebay and CL)?
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 Joined: May 2006 Posts: 4232
Location: Steeler Nation, Hudson Valley Contingent | Al has a a really nice used one at Lost Art Vintage.
Edited by Patch 2014-07-31 7:04 PM
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | If this is the site, I couldn't find the ea68 listed ..
http://lostartvintage.readyhosting.com/mainframe.asp
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 Joined: February 2014 Posts: 714
Location: moline,illinois | Look under used instruments, then guitars, its down a few pages, beautiful flame maple top..i also saw one on guitar centers used gear section ,fairly plain looking and not sure about condition but cheaper if your on a tight budget.i also think your link is wrong, if you click on alpep it will take you to his home page for OFC where theres a link for lost art vintage.
Edited by 2wheeldrummer 2014-07-31 11:37 PM
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 Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | Go here:
http://www.lostartvintage.com/Categoryinfo.aspx?categoryid=10&categ...
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | Got it, thanks.
The ea68 can be stripped )
http://www.jonmarkstone.com/vipers.html |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | Hiya guys, the OP here.
I've noticed some EA68's have the serial number at the back of headstock, whilst on others there is none there.
Why is this??
Also, the same model is available with the 'plastic' tuners and some with metal ones.
cheers
Doug

Edited by kavalero 2014-08-18 7:11 PM
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 Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | The earlier EAs had s/n on paper labels inside the body cavity; same sorta deal as the standard acoustic line. Sometime in the late 90's, Ovation took to stamping s/ns on the back of the headstock on all their guitars.
As for the tuners, I have no clue. Mine has Shallers.
BTW, there are Korean versions of these guitars. The best way to tell them apart ( for me anyway) us that the USA models have string through body setup, and the Korean models have the pinless bridge like the standard acoustics.
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | stonebobbo - 2014-08-19 11:56 AM
As for the tuners, I have no clue. Mine has Shallers.
BTW, there are Korean versions of these guitars. The best way to tell them apart ( for me anyway) us that the USA models have string through body setup, and the Korean models have the pinless bridge like the standard acoustics.
Wow, thanks for the great info, didn't know they made them in Korea as well (which I wanted to avoid at all cost).
Herewith one with the plastic tuners
http://www.lostartvintage.com/Categoryinfo.aspx?categoryid=10&categ...

Edited by kavalero 2014-08-18 9:26 PM
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Those are "Pearloid" tuners.
They are fancy.
And yeah... They are plastic.
But Fancy Plastic.
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia |
Is this me or the action on this one appears a bit high?
Or all EA68's are like that??
($_57VIP.jpg)
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$_57VIP.jpg (30KB - 0 downloads)
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 Joined: January 2009 Posts: 1249
Location: Texas | Here is one I use to own, and although out of focus, you can see they are similar. Played like butter...very strat like. 
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | The OP here ..
... looks like I bought the guitar.
Any recommendations with strings; I play 10-48 on electric but have little experience with acoustic geetar strings.
Which brand would you recommend, thanks.
;-))
Edited by kavalero 2014-09-04 2:15 AM
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | 12-53 (actually 0.012-0.053)
Since you use relatively heavy 10's on an electric...
12-53 should feel just right.
edit-- Oh! Brand ... D'addario EJ16 Phosphor Bronze will be a good start.
Edited by Old Man Arthur 2014-09-04 2:48 AM
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 Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | I like lighter strings on the EA-68. I'd go with 10-46, especially since you like to play electric. As you strings, there are 100 opinions for every 50 people. Personally, I like DR Sunbeams.
Enjoy your Viper.
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Joined: May 2008 Posts: 1561
Location: Indiana | I use extra light 10-47. |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | Well, its been a while since my original post (the OP here). A while ago I've got the ea68 and was very nappy with the guitar, especialy when pluged in a good amp or a PA. Couldn't stand the lack of dots on the fret-board, so a luthier did a good job. Here she is 

Edited by kavalero 2015-08-25 8:28 AM
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Joined: July 2015 Posts: 190
Location: SW Mintsoda | So, did you end up getting the Korean made one (someone mentioned they had the same bridge as standard O's - no string through body...)? |
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 Joined: December 2006 Posts: 6996
Location: Jet City | 360Ovation - 2015-08-25 7:17 AM So, did you end up getting the Korean made one (someone mentioned they had the same bridge as standard O's - no string through body...)? The one above is string thru FWIW, the best playing Ovation acoustic necks in my opinion, are from this era. I like the lack of lacquer on the neck. I have several... The Book, R869, EA, Mando, Longneck, etc. Some non-Ovations too. |
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Joined: May 2008 Posts: 1561
Location: Indiana | The celebrity viper has a different bridge and thinline pickup. No string-thru. Chunkier neck profile, too. |
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 Joined: January 2009 Posts: 1249
Location: Texas | Jonmark...totally different neck...5 piece for the EA...it even had a different shape where it ended at the body. Maybe the CV/EA Shadow preamp was the only thing the two shared in common. |
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 Joined: September 2011 Posts: 402
Location: New Hartford CT | My shop supplied Ovation with all tension rods up until the new LX neck came along. The pre K bar neck rods were 3/16 dia cut to the proper length dependent on model of guitar with a 10-32 thread on one end. The anchor for the other end involved milling a 3/16 groove into pre cut 1/2" x 5/8 x 1/4thk steel blocks. We'd Cut off the 1/2 x 1/4 block material in 5/8 lengths and line hundreds of them up in a custom 3 row fixture then gang mill them all at once...then the blocks were tumbled to deburr. After that they were ready to go into a welding fixture where we'd weld about a dozen tensions rods to the anchor blocks at a time it took about a day to weld 500 rods so we'd be at that several times/year considering they sold 10 or 20K guitars/year.
The K bar (die cast zinc aluminum casting fitted inside the neck) neck did away with the welded anchor in favor of a hook in the 3/16 dia rod which fit into a hole in the K bar. Of course Ovation also changed the adjustment nut location at that time, from the headstock to inside the bowl, eliminating the need for a TRC. I must have manually bent at least a 2 or 3 hundred thousand k bar style tension rods...I still have all the fixturing we used at my shop. Let's just say that bending those 3/16 dia rods around a drill blank in our custom made fixture was old school.
We did a lot of hand work back then...just to produce some tension rods!
Edited by Geostorm98 2015-08-25 4:50 PM
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 Joined: January 2009 Posts: 1249
Location: Texas | Fascinating George! What was the real reason Ovation went with the Kbar setup? Was there a flaw in the original TR design that needed addressed or was the kbar superior in some way or was it a time/cost savings move? I know that kbar O's seem heavier. |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | 360Ovation - 2015-08-26 12:17 AM
So, did you end up getting the Korean made one (someone mentioned they had the same bridge as standard O's - no string through body...)?
Mine is made in USA .. (would never buy a guitar made in Korea).
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 Joined: September 2011 Posts: 402
Location: New Hartford CT | amosmoses - 2015-08-25 6:48 PM
Fascinating George! What was the real reason Ovation went with the Kbar setup? Was there a flaw in the original TR design that needed addressed or was the kbar superior in some way or was it a time/cost savings move? I know that kbar O's seem heavier.
jay, the original tension rods with welded anchor had no design flaws I'm aware of but I think beal would have the best explanation of why they went with the k bar...far as I know it was designed to enhance neck stability and provide a stronger attachment to the bowl. The casting itself is very light weight but most people feel that the necks are a tad heavier. Some prefer pre k bar necks and others have noted how Ovation necks with k bar are incredibly stable and hold tuning like no other. I really have no preference and am more interested in the neck profile...I don't like clubby feeling necks.
Apologies to the OP for getting a little sidetracked.
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | .
Guys, I have tried many string manufacturers and gauges, but the guitar still feels a bit stiff, especially on bending, the 3rd string in particular.
What are the opinions on installing a set of electric guitar strings, ie. Ernie Ball Slinky 9 - 46 ?
Cheers!
.
Edited by kavalero 2015-08-28 1:17 AM
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Experimentation is Good.
The piezo pickup would likely work with Electric Strings...
But the "intonation" of the saddle is set-up for a Wound "G" string.
It will only cost you about $6 or $7 to find out.
Otherwise, there are Silk-n-Steel strings.
Martin FX130 Silk and Phosphor strings.
There are D'Addario EJ10... 80/20 Bronze 10-47.
All of which have lighter tension.
But none of which will feel like Ernie Ball Super Slinkies.
Remember, this is an Acoustic guitar... albeit a Chambered-body Acoustic-Electric.
I understand that you are used to electric guitars.
So you can put Electric Strings on it. It might sound tinny.
But you can change that with appropriate amplifier gymnastics.
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Joined: July 2015 Posts: 190
Location: SW Mintsoda | That 3rd string is problematic... I've never found a wound 3rd string (acoustic or electric) that bends well compared to an unwound G - but unwound G's on acoustics always sound "wrong" (tinny?) to me... YMMV |
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 Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | kavalero - 2015-08-27 11:16 PM . Guys, I have tried many string manufacturers and gauges, but the guitar still feels a bit stiff, especially on bending, the 3rd string in particular. What are the opinions on installing a set of electric guitar strings, ie. Ernie Ball Slinky 9 - 46 ? Cheers! . Try some acoustic strings that are 10's. 12's feel too heavy on my Viper ... I ended up settling on DR Sunbeams 11's. Sunbeams have a lighter feel to me because of their round core (vs. hex). |
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Joined: May 2008 Posts: 1561
Location: Indiana | Agree with bobbo. 10-47 works best for me on my Viper. |
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | I can not bend a 2 semi tones up on a wound 10-47 thus my concern .. |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Neither can I.
I don't think anyone can... The fingerboard is not wide enough.
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Oh! You could use Acoustic Strings like the EJ10's and just get a single un-wound string for the G.
So you could use any regular acoustic strings and just get the appropriate gauge smooth string for the G.
And I just did a quick test on my Steinberger and I can bend the G String further than a whole step...
So I guess that there is a big difference between wound and un-wound strings.
Edited by Old Man Arthur 2015-08-29 2:46 AM
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Joined: July 2014 Posts: 28
Location: Sydney, Australia | /
I currently have DR Sunbeams 10's.
Nice strings but too rigid for my liking?!
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Edited by kavalero 2015-08-30 7:50 PM
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