|
|
Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18
| So, i bought a project guitar. It's a vintage Ovation that had been sent back to the factory for a new top.
The new top originally looked like doo-doo. It was raw -plywood looking. But, after some 220 grit sanding, it looks much better. It has been pre-drilled for the bridge. It came with all the parts necessary to build it out.
My only issue - is around the edges , where the binding meets the bowl. There are some "gaps".
Any recommendation on how to "fill" those gaps ?? |
|
|
|
Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | Scott,
Not sure where to start without photos.
You do your own binding but if it was sent back to the factory for a new top why wouldn't have been finished? |
|
|
|
Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18
|
pg">
|
|
|
|
Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18
| http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/7e10e0e39dc492370... |
|
|
|
Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18
| http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/d27553189a10e252e...
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/6be6d82765974bee2... |
|
|
|
Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18
| a few Ipad pics, not the best quality- but best i can do for now. the top was very ruff wood, but i have sanded it in steps up to 220 grit - and it feels great.
Am i missing the binding or something between the bowl and the edge ? |
|
|
|
Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | That does look odd. You'd expect the binding to stand a little proud.
Could always add another layer to the binding.
Sanding the Bowl down to match and refinishing the bowl is another option.
|
|
|
|
Joined: June 2012 Posts: 2316
Location: Pueblo West, CO | MWoody - 2014-07-16 9:14 PM
Scott,
Not sure where to start without photos.
You do your own binding but if it was sent back to the factory for a new top why wouldn't have been finished?
I'm with you on this, Mike.
I don't think the factory would send back an unfinished guitar, especially with it looking like that. I suspect the seller 'said' it was sent to the factory.
Scott,
Can you provide any pics of what the inside looks like where the top joins the kerfing? |
|
|
|
Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18
| http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/20140718_181536.j...
http://i223.photobucket.com/albums/dd198/scottypp/20140718_181451.j...
thanks for the info, guys.
Question...if i sand and refinish the bowl, how can i duplicate the "pebble finish" on the bowl.
' |
|
|
|
Joined: June 2012 Posts: 2316
Location: Pueblo West, CO | I'm not sure what type of paint they used on the bowls, but judging from how hard it is I would have to guess that it's either epoxy or polyurethane.
I searched around for textured paint for my 1619 and could only find two types: bumper paint and truck bed coating.
The bumper paint is pretty expensive to buy, so I decided to go with Rust-Oleum truck bed coating. Here's a glimpse of what it looks like. It's definitely softer than the factory paint, and takes a bit of practice to get it to look like the factory surface texture, but it does a pretty good job. I paid $10 for a can and bought it at my local AutoZone. |
|
|
|
Joined: July 2014 Posts: 18
| thats a great suggestion- thanks ! |
|
|
|
Joined: August 2003 Posts: 4619
Location: SoCal | RustOleum (or however it is spelled) has a paint (in can) that covers almost all surfaces (wood, metal, etc.)...even made the 1987 frame of my patio door screen look like new even after at least 3 years. Used what is called a 'burnt copper' which was black but had light flakes of copper similar to the Adamas bowels. Might give it a great effect even better than the original.
|
|
|