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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Would you, Should you, Could you use a compensated saddle on a twelve string?
I wanna raise the saddle a coupla millimeters on my CC255...
[Before y'all pick on me, this applies to any 12...]
I have more-than-one compensated saddle, and I wanna know if that would be good to use.
The saddle on there is just straight plastic, and the pick-up is not connected to it.
The previous owner has lowered it to the point that the strings almost touch the wood.
So... I'm looking for free Luthiery advice. :rolleyes:
[Yeah, I know that I could just stick a shim in there... But What Fun Is That!?!
actually I will shim it first to determine the desired height...] |
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Joined: February 2004 Posts: 70
Location: kansas | check the dimensions(length and width) and try a tusq saddle that meets the saddles specs:
http://graphtech.com/downloads/tusq/tusq_catalog.pdf |
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Joined: November 2003 Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | I would think a compensated saddle would work fine, as long as it's one that is compensated for that particular scale length. |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | My 1618 has a Compensated saddle , on High E strings ,saddle is shifted forwards ( towards headstock ,and ,it is allso Significantly Lower....on Low E ,saddle is shifted downwards and is allso significantly lower ( Original Ovation ).
Vic |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | All my compensated saddles have the B shifted away from the headstock, with the rest of the saddle following the same path.
The Tusq (for Ovation) that I just got, the "break point" on all the strings is the same, except the B.
Guess that they figger that the groove for that saddle is already slanted.
I originally was gonna put it on my 1121,
but now that I've got it, I started thinking...
which is where my trouble usually begins.
[plus, I'm half-way satisfied and surprised at how well the saddle I made for the 1121 works] |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Arthur , you`ve gotten me all curious now , what`s with making/shifting a new saddle , are U experiencing Intonation problems..?..
Vic |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | On the 1121... When I got it the action was high, and there were no shims to remove. So I bought had bought a coupla $1 saddles... but none of them fit. So me and my phony (brand X) Dremel tool created a new one outta one of them (cuz I didn't wanna mess-up the original). And it ain't bad.
On the CC255, I'm skeered that that saddle shouldn't be that low, and maybe I should fix it...
Now... I bought this Tusq-for-Ovation saddle on a whim... Thinking that it might come in handy.
After deciding that my 1121 doesn't really need a new saddle, I was trolling the waters before I disassemble the 12-string. [Whole lotta strings to tune when I put it back together.]
Another possibility is the 1112-4....
[too much free time ya' think?] |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | Arthur , I hear ya` , but how about the Original Saddle and shims , U know , them frets are placed for a reason , and , allthough it`s great fun to " do -it -ye`r self " , it takes a lot of tinkering ( specially with a 12 stringer ) , and before U know it , the Intonation goes " out t`a window " , now ,I`m not tryin` to discourage ya` or anything , but be aware of the pittfalls lyin` ahead of ya` , I would say , try and get hold of the Original Saddle AND Shims , (them are un -even cut) , there `s a reason them saddles are sloped , forward/rearwards , and did U remember to check :
Neck : press 1st Fret...14th Fret ( little " play " at 7th fret , between string/fretboard
Nut : Distance between nut and 1st fret should be same ( give or take a little )
Saddle : No Buzz , no -matter what string U De -press
all meant as a Reminder...no patronizing here :)
Vic |
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 Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Yeah, as I was typing I realized that I should just use a shim. I got some material that Greg (gh1) sent me... Plus a shim or two from other Celebrity's. But I don't have any inclined ones, but I may not need them.
And I got a $65 wood box (that would NOT be mentioned in my signature) to die-sect if I got real bored. I actually made a nice guitar outta a $33 Johnson 620. It's down the hall...
Maybe I need to get my one of them Build-it-Yerself Gee-tar Kits... |
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 Joined: April 2004 Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | I had a compensated saddle made for my Baxendale 12 when it was built. Perfect intonation everywhere on the fretboard. |
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Joined: November 2003 Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Stephen needed it to compensate for his lack of talent. |
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Joined: October 2005 Posts: 5331
Location: Cicero, NY | HEEEY-oooo!
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | JEFF W : I would think a compensated saddle would work fine, as long as it's one that is compensated for that particular scale length.
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Now Arthur , Jeff has a point there , what are your intentions with a new saddle , are U contemplating on using a different tuning ?..
I`ve heard of some who have done so , the theory being based on string -behaviour when shortened / lengthened , ..I dunno.. :)
Vic |
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 Joined: April 2004 Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | Originally posted by Jeff W.:
Stephen needed it to compensate for his lack of talent. HEY.....I resemble that remark! :( |
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Joined: October 2005 Posts: 5331
Location: Cicero, NY | At least there is compensation for your "lack of talent", T. Some of us are beyond help! ;) |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 2491
Location: Copenhagen Denmark | ..Oohhmm... |
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