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December 2003
Posts: 849
Location: Canada | I have bought a 6756LX on eBay and finally got a few string sets in the mail so am now in the process of putting on the new strings (Adamas1616 to start with). Anyway, while stripping off the old strings I noticed some issues and have questions about them:
1) The nuts that hold the tuners in place are very lose and I am tempted to tighten them - how tight do they need to be: just hand tightened or shall I use a wrench and really tighten them?
2) I don't have guitar polish so I am wondering if there is any regular household substance that can be used to clean the guitar. I would like to get rid off fingermarks on the soundboard and also clean the fingerboard. I also noticed black stains/corrosion on one of the frets, and some drop marks around the pre amp. I assume that there was some liquid dripping on the guitar and that fret (perhaps sweat...). Anyway, I assume a damp cloth will get rid off the stains on the bowl, but not sure if I should try a fine sandpaper on the fret or if there is some other solution.
Thanks |
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October 2012
Posts: 349
Location: Denver, CO | I use lemon oil. Wipe on wet with a soft cloth, scrubbing a little at the really grungy spots, then buff with a soft dry cloth until dry and shiny. I can't give advice about corrosion on the frets... I have tightened the nuts on the tuners occasionally with a wrench, just being very gentle. I don't think they need to be TIGHT. |
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Posts: 6199
Location: Phoenix AZ | I would suggest to use mineral oil on the fretboard. Citrus based "oils" tend to dry out the wood which is eactly opposite of what you want.
Opinions vary on this topic but mineral oil has always been my drink of choice. |
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December 2006
Posts: 6994
Location: Jet City | +1 on mineral oil. fine steel wool for the frets
Edited by Damon67 2013-03-17 9:38 PM
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Posts: 1673
Location: SoCal | Bore Oil on the fretboard. I use my old stainless steel erasing shield to protect the fretboard when polishing the frets. |
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October 2005
Posts: 4050
Location: Utah | I use pliers to very carefully tighten the tuner nuts. You can put masking tape around the area to protect the finish in case the pliers slip. Or use a box end wrench but don't let it touch the surface. The nuts should be pretty snug but not so tight the wood starts to deform.
Clayton USA makes a 100% lemon oil which I use on the fretboard and am quite happy with. Real lemon oil can be a bit hard to find. There are a lot of lemony smelling products which are not 100% lemon oil. Don't use the fake stuff.
To clean the rest of the guitar just use a damp very slightly soapy rag, then wipe it with a wet no soap rag, then wipe it dry with a soft towel.
Because I'm a fanatic I use a guitar cleaner product. Dunlop 65 works great. Probably it is totally unnecessary. I also use a carnuba wax on the gloss finish front of the guitar and on the headstock.
DO NOT wax the back of the neck. The heat from your left hand as you play the guitar will slightly melt the wax which will then become sticky.
I don't like steel wool for frets because it leaves tiny little bits behind. They sell little polishing pads at places like stew-mac, or you can use jewelry polish and either some elbow grease or a dremel tool. Mask off the fretboard before you polish the frets. Then pull off the masking tape and clean the fretboard and then use the lemon or mineral oil.
For me the whole cleaning and polishing routine is something I do about once each year. In between just use a soft cloth to wipe it down after playing or use a damp no-soap cloth if there is any gunk to get off. Ovation/Adamas are super easy to keep looking great.
Edited by FlySig 2013-03-18 9:14 AM
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Posts: 137
Location: Massachusetts | I would use an open end wrench that fits the nut properly and snug them up. A guitar tech told me about his "secret" fret polish. He uses a product called Never Dull. You can find it in most automotive stores. Make sure to mask the fret board before using it. I've tried it and it works great. 0000 steel wool gets the fret board good and clean, then I use a fretboard oil called Guitar Honey. You have to be careful with some oils that might soften the wood and cause loose frets.
Be cautious with household products on your guitar. Go out and get some guitar polish for the top, it won't cause a build up of wax on the finish and a damp cloth on the bowl should remove any grit from it.
Edited by javaman 2013-03-18 7:58 PM
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October 2008
Posts: 639
Location: NW of Philadelphia | As for the corroded frets, use 0000 steel wool and make or get a fretboard protector. It protects your fretboard from the steel wool while exposing just the fret. It's a piece of stainless sheet metal with a slot that the fret comes through when its laid over it. I use an old draftsman's eraser shield (being an old engineer, I had a few laying around). You can also make one by cutting an old credit card in half, laying the pieces on either side of your fret lengthwise, and taping together.
Lay over and polish away. |
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March 2010
Posts: 486
Location: Suisun City, Ca | Personally, I use a damp cloth or if really bad, lemon pledge (sparingly, a spritz to the cloth is enough for the whole top)
About once a year, I'll work the fret board using mineral oil. With the oil on the board, let it sit for as long as an hour, I will then use a scotch brite pad to scour the frets. I've never seen so much as a scratch on the wood after this step. Vigorous rub down of fretboard with clean cloth to remove oil and any rust, scrunge from frets. If needed Pepsodent toothpaste to the tuners and I use a soft cloth as a softener on the open end wrench for the tuners. Snug only. Then a damp cloth to the inside and good to go until the next string change. A damp cloth between cleanings is usually enough. I have bore oil and I have used it, but I really don't like the heavy "petroleum" smell on my gits.
Just my $.02 |
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December 2004
Posts: 1673
Location: SoCal | AstroDan - 2013-03-19 10:32 AM I have bore oil and I have used it, but I really don't like the heavy "petroleum" smell on my gits. Dan, Where did you get your bore oil? Bore Oil... for woodwind instruments (NOT purchased at PepBoys or Guns R' US)... purified food-grade mineral oil... tasteless, odorless. Some bore oil labels say, "Warning: Contains petroleum distilates. May be harmful if swallowed." I would not use them. Not all mineral oils are the same. Look for labeling like, "food grade" (in the US, FDA determines "food grade"), Butcher block & cutting board oil, Mineral Oil USP 100%. Here is Mineral Oil, USP 100% in a convenient applicator bottle. You can pick it up at your local WalMart. 
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Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | I bought a bottle of this stuff back in 2008 for about $2.
Now it has expired, but I still have a bunch of it left.
I'm guessing that this is Food Grade, and it don't stink.
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Location: Flahdaw | arthurseery - 2013-03-19 6:42 PM
I bought a bottle of this stuff back in 2008 for about $2.
Now it has expired, but I still have a bunch of it left.
I'm guessing that this is Food Grade, and it don't stink.
Living in Portland, I'm surprised you have any of that stuff left??? |
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Posts: 12759
Location: Boise, Idaho | I'm surprised a guy who calls himself "Old Man Arthur" hasn't used up a bottle of laxative in 5 years. |
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Posts: 4535
Location: Flahdaw | Might explain why he's only half dressed in most of his videos tho..... |
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September 2006
Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | darkbarguitar - 2013-03-19 4:22 PM
Might explain why he's only half dressed in most of his videos tho.....
That is One video... But I can make more if you desire. 
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Posts: 4535
Location: Flahdaw | True, but my infamous "gay shirt" video was only ONE video. All the rest I have been dressed overly manly... |
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Posts: 5330
Location: Cicero, NY | "overly manly"
Obviously we must have missed those videos. |
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January 2009
Posts: 4535
Location: Flahdaw | Mr WeaserP - 2013-03-20 11:00 AM
"overly manly"
Obviously we must have missed those videos.
Didn't the judge order you to stay off all those "manly" sites? |
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ovation maintenance question