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Joined: February 2009 Posts: 335
Location: Reisterstown, Maryland | Hi, guys and gals, I just bought this beauitful black Elite Standard 6778 for the loooow price of $40 in downtown Baltimore. It's beat to pieces litteraly in places, the right rear section has a top section broken off the rear bowl compromised and the binding coming off. thhe battery compartment is shattered and I would say it ha to be replaced.
Now for some of the interesting things I noticed on this rather poorly taken care of O.
1)This guitar was still is perfect tune.
2)Each brace on on the inside looks intact, as well as what was left of the top on the inside.
I have the pic over on my Ning site, I can't for the life of me get a pic over here yet.
This O I know is going to be over my head with the fixing with the top crack/piece missing.
My ?? is anybody her do this kind of work or should I go to MS?
Anita
And I did ask the guy whatever did the O do to him? Didin't get an answer. |
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Joined: September 2008 Posts: 1281
Location: Ohio | MS Definately..... |
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Joined: February 2009 Posts: 335
Location: Reisterstown, Maryland | Nikon,
Did you see the pics?
Anita |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | Originally posted by nikon4004:
MS Definately.....
MotherShip will build you a new guitar.... :cool: |
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Joined: February 2009 Posts: 335
Location: Reisterstown, Maryland | Thank you Arthur for getting them pics on here.
I was pretty impressed it was in tune.
Ok I don't have any phone #'s or names so who do I talk too and what's the #?
Anita |
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Joined: March 2009 Posts: 416
Location: On the Coast - Halfway between SF & OR | Originally posted by Old Man Arthur:
MotherShip will build you a new guitar.... :cool: Yes, they will but it'll cost you. I just got a quote from them on a balladeer that I thought could be "repaired" but they felt could only be fixed by installing a new top and bowl at the cost of $1,200.
Not the price range I had in mind... |
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Joined: September 2006 Posts: 10777
Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR | You can go to the Ovation homepage, and under support you will find this email address...
askus@ovationguitars.com
Unfortunately, I am not sure if that is the current address. But you can try it and see if you get a response.
Also, maybe someone here knows Kim or John's current contact info... |
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Joined: March 2009 Posts: 416
Location: On the Coast - Halfway between SF & OR | Originally posted by Old Man Arthur:
maybe someone here knows Kim or John's current contact info... Kim.Keller@kmcmusic.com |
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Joined: March 2009 Posts: 416
Location: On the Coast - Halfway between SF & OR | Additional info:
Kim Keller
Customer Service Manager
Hamer Guitars
37 Greenwoods Rd.
New Hartford, CT 06057
860-379-7575, ext. 125 |
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Joined: April 2006 Posts: 1017
Location: Budd Lake, NJ | Wow...if that's what the guitar looks like, I can only imagine what the person on the receiving end must have looked like and what they did to get "El Kabonged" so thoroughly. :D It looks like it got run over; good thing it's not a wood box....
Anita, those are some mighty impressive "sound vents;" good luck on restoring her. The ER at the Mothership has worked other miracles before.
--Karen |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Very interesting. So, the investment in repair, with The Wizards, would surely be close to the dollar-figure of finding another 6778 in (probably) very-close-to-mint condition. It would seem to be difficult to attach sentimental value to an instrument just obtained, even at the fortuitous price you paid;, but its not my call.
I sincerely doubt The MotherShip would reuse many of the parts, anyway. The bowl & top are destined for the dumpster, to be sure. The neck needs an ear graft, but may be salvageable. Can you determine if the electronics work? That would be a spendy proposition, for replacement. |
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Joined: December 2006 Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Originally posted by seesquare:
Can you determine if the electronics work? If nothing else, I would think that you could get more than your money back on the 'tronics.
Did ya get a case? Even better... |
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Joined: March 2008 Posts: 2683
Location: Hot Springs, S.D. | Over on the ning site you will find a group called BFLG - Bottom Feeders Luthier Guild. Maybe someone over there would have suggestions. They might even want to buy it for parts. |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | That's a cogent point. I happen to be one of the charter members of the BFLG, and am reknowned for having more-guts-than-brains. If I launched off into that project, the 1st thing would be a critical assessment of the geometry of the instrument, though it sounds relatively intact. Generally, I avoid pulling the necks, since it usually results in destruction of the bowl, or the neck itself. Probably why The Wizards replace the bowl & top, as-a-unit.
Functional analysis? "The sum of the parts are greater than the whole." |
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Joined: April 2008 Posts: 498
| Originally posted by fletcher:
Originally posted by Old Man Arthur:
MotherShip will build you a new guitar.... :cool: Yes, they will but it'll cost you. I just got a quote from them on a balladeer that I thought could be "repaired" but they felt could only be fixed by installing a new top and bowl at the cost of $1,200.
Not the price range I had in mind... That MUST be the FMIC New pricing... or just the MAP quote, at least I hope so... that's an awful lot for a Balladeer, even if it's a glass shiny bowl.
I have had a couple top/bowl jobs done over the past 2-3 years.... 1537/1115 and another about 4 yrs ago... and all came back home for an actual charge of MUCH less than the "quoted repair charge"..... but things MAY have changed considerably with the New Boss... I hope not.
good luck with it.
Glenn |
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Joined: March 2009 Posts: 416
Location: On the Coast - Halfway between SF & OR | Originally posted by Palm Bay Glenn:
That MUST be the FMIC New pricing... or just the MAP quote, at least I hope so... that's an awful lot for a Balladeer, even if it's a glass shiny bowl. I didn't know about the repair possibly coming in for less, speaking to them after receiving the written quote certainly didn't leave me with that hope. Yes, it's a shiny bowl and no, I haven't decided what I'm going to do about it yet.
Anita, I would still send your guitar to them for a repair quote; the shipping shouldn't be bad from your location and they sent me the quote really quickly. Then you'll know what the best will charge and you can go from there. |
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Joined: August 2005 Posts: 3736
Location: Sunshine State, Australia | Just string it up and play it. I wouldn't spend any more than you already have on it.
That extra sound port could make it sound really good for the player. ;) |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | A decent suggestion, really. The new soundport can be stabilized by some judicial use of epoxy, and a few clothespins & acetone for the binding.
Especially, if the preamp is still operable. |
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Joined: February 2009 Posts: 335
Location: Reisterstown, Maryland | Originally posted by seesquare:
That's a cogent point. I happen to be one of the charter members of the BFLG, and am reknowned for having more-guts-than-brains. If I launched off into that project, the 1st thing would be a critical assessment of the geometry of the instrument, though it sounds relatively intact. Generally, I avoid pulling the necks, since it usually results in destruction of the bowl, or the neck itself. Probably why The Wizards replace the bowl & top, as-a-unit.
Functional analysis? "The sum of the parts are greater than the whole." Seesquare,
When I got this home It was still in tune and played beautifully. The bracing is intact and so is the top the is still there, the cracks don't go all the way thru. I wish I knew more cause I'd love to do It I just done know how to fix a broken top or a busted roundback. If I hda a teacher I'd do it.
But thank you all for your input, I'll see what the factory says and then maybe just part the salvagables out.
Anita |
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Joined: July 2004 Posts: 766
Location: New Hampsha | that looks like a great candidate for next year's guitar giveaway.
Please post it if you decide not to do the MS thing. |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | I'm with Beal. Play It.
The top could be patched, I suppose, but it would never look right. |
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Joined: February 2009 Posts: 335
Location: Reisterstown, Maryland | Hmmmm, play it the way it is. Well, I have wamted a beater guitar. I'm gonna think on that. Yes, I am.
Thnaks people.
Anita :D |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Look-it here. If Willie can keep Trigger going, with all the holes & screws in that critter, your "beater" will be a superb, pristine instrument, in relative comparison!! |
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Joined: December 2004 Posts: 4394
Location: East Tennessee | |
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Joined: December 2006 Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Mike,
That photo alway cracks me up. All I think of is that guitar had to be a part time bong; played, aged and smoked! |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | M'Lady,
I could send you this if you wanted it...
Then all you have to do is Cut & Paste... |
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Joined: November 2002 Posts: 3611
Location: Pacific Northwest Inland Empire | Nice. Different auxiliary soundport location. But, is the bracing pattern correct for an Elite?
OK, admittedly, a bit anal. |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | Pull the braces and just replace the part of the top that is needed.
Fill, sand, finish... |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | Originally posted by 2ifbyC:
...played, aged and smoked! Not a bad description of the man either. |
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Joined: April 2008 Posts: 288
Location: New Hampshire, USA | Originally posted by Palm Bay Glenn:
I have had a couple top/bowl jobs done over the past 2-3 years.... Whew! Read that one a little too fast at first... |
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Joined: December 2006 Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Originally posted by scooterboy:
Whew! Read that one a little too fast at first... |
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Joined: February 2009 Posts: 335
Location: Reisterstown, Maryland | Originally posted by MWoody:
M'Lady,
I could send you this if you wanted it...
Then all you have to do is Cut & Paste... I'm thinking about tearing this one apart too just as a learning experience.
Can anyone tell me how to get the electronics out? I've taken out off everything but haven't a clue as to how that main unit comes off.
Anita |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | If its the rectangular unit - under the stick on cover you'll find four screws that will undo the flange holding the preamp in.
If you want that top you can cut out the area you need and just glue it for now. |
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Joined: December 2006 Posts: 6268
Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast | Anita,
Before you go any further, check out this THREAD! ;) |
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