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Joined: January 2010 Posts: 15
| I'm trying to figure out if I have a problem or this is normal. I've starting using a capo lately while learning some various songs. Every time I move the capo even one fret my low E needs retuned. All the other strings are fine. I tried reseating the capo to make sure is is even and straight but no luck. I'm new to using a capo and am not sure is something is wrong or things like that are to be expected.
Thanks
Ray |
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Joined: April 2004 Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | that is not normal
maybe an intonation issue
is your harmonic "e" in tune with open "e"? |
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Joined: October 2005 Posts: 4044
Location: Utah | Place the capo as close to the fret as possible while still getting clear notes. That will reduce the stretching of the string by the capo. If the capo is adjustable, use as little tension as is possible while still working.
If your action is too high it could make the problem worse. |
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Joined: January 2010 Posts: 15
| With no capo the low E harmonic at the 12th fret is in tune with the high E
I used an electronic tuner to make some checks.
If I tune everything open to the right tuning it all looks good. If I put the capo on the first fret the low E goes high, the A goes a little high and the rest are fine. The further I go up the neck the greater the deviation towards high side. by the fourth fret the low E is almost at the highest end of the electronic tuner scale for low E. |
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Joined: August 2009 Posts: 602
Location: Hanau, Hessen, Germany | What capo are you using? |
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Joined: January 2010 Posts: 15
| It is a Kyser simple single bar spring clip type. I think they call it a quick change type. I think I paid around $15 for it. |
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Joined: January 2010 Posts: 15
| My guitar is an old 1612 just for reference. |
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Joined: December 2003 Posts: 13987
Location: Upper Left USA | When you "set" the capo it needs to contact the strings and push just before the crest on the fret. Much like a perfect finger placement. If you set the capo too far back it acts like a string bend sets of intonation.
Because of the size of the low strings the flex they go through is easier to notice.
Readjusting after capo placement is normal but the need can be minimized with some applied techniques.
And btw - thank you for even tuning! We need more of that. |
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Joined: May 2008 Posts: 4996
Location: Phoenix AZ | In last years Matt Smith clinic at Amelia he demonstrated what he called Proper Capo Use... Place the capo directly ON the fret.
I thought, well this is a lot of bullshit. Until I tried it and as usual the master was correct. The rational behind it is that between frets, no matter how close you try to get, a capo will usually depress the strings with more pressure and with a wider grab then you probably would with your fingers. I was amazed how much better the intonation was by placing the capo right on the fret. |
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Joined: January 2010 Posts: 15
| I will try to change the capo placement and see what I results I get.I've not tried it ON the fret before. |
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Joined: April 2004 Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | True enough. I forgot that Matt said that but I too have used it that way for a while now.....
cept with the 12 strings. They don't seem to like the fret placement very much. |
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Joined: January 2010 Posts: 15
| THAT DID IT!! I put the capo right on the fret and checked it on 4 different frets up the neck and it stayed right on tune. I would have never thought that was the problem. THANK YOU ALL, especially Gallerinski and Mwoody.
The only downside was the thought was creeping in that I could spin the problem into a good excuse to the wife for a new guitar, LOL but this is cheaper.
Thanks again
Ray |
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Joined: December 2008 Posts: 1453
Location: Texas | Originally posted by Ray_M:
The only downside was the thought was creeping in that I could spin the problem into a good excuse to the wife for a new guitar, LOL but this is cheaper.
Thanks again
Ray Now that you can play in tune, you really NEED more guitars, she's gotta understand that…
…it's OFC logic 101…
…or something…
;)
-standing- |
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Joined: March 2008 Posts: 2683
Location: Hot Springs, S.D. | Right ON the fret. Wow, I never thought to try that. Thanks for passing that info along. I'll have to pass it on to my students. No matter how long a person's been playing, there is always something new to learn. THANKS! |
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Joined: August 2002 Posts: 8307
Location: Tennessee | Those Elliott capos are really nice, especially for getting it right on the fret without taking up a lot of space. |
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Joined: November 2008 Posts: 1119
Location: Michigan | G7th Nashville puts a lot less tension on the strings. I can slap it anywhere between the frets without a problem. The keyser I had always pulled everything out of tune. |
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Joined: December 2004 Posts: 4394
Location: East Tennessee | Dave is right, placing the capo on the fret is the best. G7 and Shubb are great capos. I find the Kyser usually puts too much tension on the strings. |
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Joined: April 2004 Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | Elliott capos rule |
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Joined: August 2008 Posts: 234
Location: Corning, NY | On the fret works great, but this problem also turns up when the nut slot is not cut deep enough for the A and low E strings. |
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Joined: March 2007 Posts: 698
Location: Cork, Ireland | I seem to remember when first learning to play that the finger or capo should always be half-way between the frets. But the advice now seems to have changed |
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Joined: February 2005 Posts: 11840
Location: closely held secret | The farther from the fret (or the more pressure the capo produces), the more the string is stretched. |
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Joined: April 2008 Posts: 2985
Location: Sydney, Australia | Originally posted by afortune:
On the fret works great, but this problem also turns up when the nut slot is not cut deep enough for the A and low E strings. That makes sense! I had this problem with my W597, but not with it's predecessor (Legend 1117). Using a G7 capo fixed the problem, but I could never understand why it only affected one string. |
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