Helix's
Yak
Posted 2010-06-08 1:45 AM (#370260)
Subject: Helix's


Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 347

Location: Reno, NV
So I finally tried the Dean Markley Helix strings in 12-53 80/20. Nothing special at all in my opinion. Just feel and sound like regular ole' 80/20's to me. I was expecting something groundbreaking with the way they were hyping them up.
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TAFKAR
Posted 2010-06-08 1:57 AM (#370261 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
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Posts: 2985

Location: Sydney, Australia
Did you use string tubes?
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Beal
Posted 2010-06-08 7:17 AM (#370262 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
January 2002
Posts: 14127

Location: 6 String Ranch
gotta use clean string tubes to get the full effect.
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Capo Guy
Posted 2010-06-08 12:58 PM (#370263 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
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Posts: 4394

Location: East Tennessee
I tried a set on my OM. I like the way they sound. Put a set on my 000-15S and was not so impressed.

More hype than actual preformance.
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-08 1:35 PM (#370264 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
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Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
According to credible sources...

"String Tubes will extend the life and improve the tone of standard acoustics strings when used according to the manufacturer's directions, and if used within 48 hours of opening package. Results and opinions vary when used on electric instrument strings and/or if package was opened and tubes were left uninstalled for several days. Imported "off-brand" tubes (Balinese) of latex and/or animal by product origin were not included in this review, and would not be recommended due to human rights violations reported during their manufacturing process."
Wayne Kerr, new product reviews, Acoustic Strings Magazine (Oct 2009)

That pretty much says it all.
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Avatar4550
Posted 2010-06-08 5:27 PM (#370265 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
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Posts: 370

Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba CANADA
Could someone please put up a link to a maker of 'string tubes' or a brand name to search on... Not finding anything here.

Thanks
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G8r
Posted 2010-06-08 5:34 PM (#370266 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
November 2006
Posts: 3969

Originally posted by Avatar4550:
Could someone please put up a link to a maker of 'string tubes' or a brand name to search on... Not finding anything here.

Thanks
Try searching the archives here. Here\'s one to get you started.
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glasstone
Posted 2010-06-08 5:44 PM (#370267 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
May 2010
Posts: 32

Location: Ohio
I wonder if that would make a difference on my breedlove. It also has a pinless bridge.
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-08 5:51 PM (#370268 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
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Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
According to the article, string tubes have specific benefits for guitars with pinless bridges (Ovations) which is why so many of us use them. Playing live, or during recording, they reduce feedback and produce a warmer, more acoustic tone.
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Gallerinski
Posted 2010-06-08 6:01 PM (#370269 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's
Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996

Location: Phoenix AZ
The string tubes are only used during the stringing process. They are REMOVED after you thread the string through the pinless bridge.

The string tubes themselves do NOTHING playing live, recording or any other such BS. Their only purpose is to prevent micro fibers of wood dust from clogging the string windings as you pull them through the bridge. In that sense they "help" the sound, but not in a direct way.

This is also why the string tubes have no benefit on pinned bridges, because you are not rasping the string through a wooden hole and subjecting it to clogging like you do on a pinless bridge.
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Avatar4550
Posted 2010-06-08 6:07 PM (#370270 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
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Posts: 370

Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba CANADA
OK, was trying to do a web search and not finding anything guitar-related... See this is an OFC-created solution.

A question... If using Cleartones or Elixirs (which are already coated...), shouldn't that accomplish the same thing as running it through a piece of polyethylene?

Or is this to allow using non-coated strings and still prevent the bridge windings from getting schmag in them?

Doesn't adding a layer of what would appear to be an absorbent material between the windings and the bridge cut down on energy transfer.

You guys have obviously been doing this for a while now... Would anyone care to write a more in-depth explanation of the theory and practice of how this is actually supposed to work... pictures perhaps?

Thanks
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Avatar4550
Posted 2010-06-08 6:11 PM (#370271 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
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Posts: 370

Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba CANADA
Sorry Dave,

We were both typing at the same time... you got in first with the explanation, before my question...
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Old Man Arthur
Posted 2010-06-08 6:13 PM (#370272 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 10777

Location: Keepin' It Weird in Portland, OR
And do I still need tubes for the higher strings?
The strings without windings?
Or do they still collect crap from the wood anyway?
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-08 6:20 PM (#370273 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
January 2009
Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
Originally posted by Gallerinski:
The string tubes are only used during the stringing process. They are REMOVED after you thread the string through the pinless bridge.

The string tubes themselves do NOTHING playing live, recording or any other such BS. Their only purpose is to prevent micro fibers of wood dust from clogging the string windings as you pull them through the bridge. In that sense they "help" the sound, but not in a direct way.

This is also why the string tubes have no benefit on pinned bridges, because you are not rasping the string through a wooden hole and subjecting it to clogging like you do on a pinless bridge.
Huh? I break them off at the 3" perforation from the ball and leave them that way for the life of the string. To my ear, I get great results but everyone's different.
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stephent28
Posted 2010-06-08 7:09 PM (#370274 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
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Posts: 13303

Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066
DB, you're a silly man.

String tubes should ALWAYS BE REMOVED after you thread them though the pinless bridge.
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Gallerinski
Posted 2010-06-08 7:15 PM (#370275 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's
Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996

Location: Phoenix AZ
OMA, good question. I think technically they are not needed on the plain strings.

DB, I think you could leave them on the strings as long as you cut them off short of the saddle.
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-08 7:37 PM (#370276 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
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Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
Okay fine, but why the perforation at the 3" mark if not by design?
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fillhixx
Posted 2010-06-08 7:48 PM (#370277 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
November 2005
Posts: 4833

Location: Campbell River, British Columbia
DB, many things that seem to almost make sense really don't.


THIS is what your Helix is supposed to sound like.
(edit: mild content warning. May excite prurient interests....of those easily interested.)
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2ifbyC
Posted 2010-06-08 8:05 PM (#370278 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's
Joined:
December 2006
Posts: 6268

Location: Florida Central Gulf Coast
Originally posted by dark bar:
Okay fine, but why the perforation at the 3" mark if not by design?
You're putin' 'em on backazzards. The perf is so ya don't wrap 'em on the tunas! ;)
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Gallerinski
Posted 2010-06-08 8:05 PM (#370279 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's
Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996

Location: Phoenix AZ
Originally posted by dark bar:
Okay fine, but why the perforation at the 3" mark if not by design?
Performation is to break them off into usable sized segments. But USE is only during the stringing process itself.
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Avatar4550
Posted 2010-06-08 8:09 PM (#370280 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
March 2010
Posts: 370

Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba CANADA
If this is a problem (and I am assuming it is, or why else would you bother with these tubes...), has anyone thought of coating the string hole through the bridge with acrylic?

I use acrylic (liquid wood sealer, like used on hardwood floors...) for several purposes here and I think if there is powerderized wood residue getting into the string windings, it would be pretty easy to coat this area with acrylic.

I love this stuff and use it on artwork, wood projects and recently fixed a chip in the headstock of my Legend with it. It is a lot more forgiving than other wood products... can be completely removed with alcohol (if necesary...), is sandable and can be left glossy or made flat as required.

You could block the string hole (nearest the neck) and introduce acrylic (in small amounts...) down a piece of guitar string slightly smaller than the hole. The unsealed wood takes up the acrylic so fast that if you were careful you could completely coat this area in a couple of passes. This would also have the added benefit of hardening this area preventing future 'errosion'.

There are a lot of superior woodworkers here... Any of you have an opinion on this idea?
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-08 8:31 PM (#370281 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
January 2009
Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
Why the hell would you go through all that when they make string tubes? I mean, I could move to Winnepeg, but that's why they invented suicide.
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Avatar4550
Posted 2010-06-08 9:01 PM (#370282 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
March 2010
Posts: 370

Location: Winnipeg, Manitoba CANADA
I'm sure I have less guitars to restring than most of you do... just figured a once-and-for-all solution might be preferable to futzing around with little bits of tubing... over and over again.

The idea I suggested is not that different than guys taking their fretless basses and having the fretboards epoxied under pressure (to prevent wear...). I know people that thought that was insane when it was first introduced, but I don't know anyone that plays fretless bass that wouldn't have it done now... if they can afford it.

Not that different really... Metal windings, soft wood... windings win every time. Or you can make the wood harder... It was just a suggestion.

As to your last comment... Winnipeg gets a lot of bad press. With the current state of the world, it's actually a pretty good place to be...
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-08 9:04 PM (#370283 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



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January 2009
Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
sorry, that was just a bad joke. I'm sure Winnipeg is.....fine.
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Gallerinski
Posted 2010-06-08 9:28 PM (#370284 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's
Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996

Location: Phoenix AZ
http://accessories.musiciansfriend.com/product/Big-Bends-String-Sle...
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fillhixx
Posted 2010-06-08 10:22 PM (#370285 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
November 2005
Posts: 4833

Location: Campbell River, British Columbia
My wife's from Winnipeg!
(true)


She played goal.
(not so much)
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fillhixx
Posted 2010-06-08 10:26 PM (#370286 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
November 2005
Posts: 4833

Location: Campbell River, British Columbia
I find it hard to believe that another one of the longest running gags here has finally become a real product! First the Standing Ovation, now this....
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Gallerinski
Posted 2010-06-08 11:08 PM (#370287 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's
Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996

Location: Phoenix AZ
Jokes on who?

You assume I don't hold the patent?
You assume it's not licensed to Big Bend?
You assume I'm not getting filthy rich off of this idea?
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Capo Guy
Posted 2010-06-09 9:07 AM (#370288 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
December 2004
Posts: 4394

Location: East Tennessee
Dave,

I would like to be a "Paid Endorser" of this product.

Might help boost sales...... Well maybe not.
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Waskel
Posted 2010-06-09 9:26 AM (#370289 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
February 2005
Posts: 11840

Location: closely held secret
It's a beautiful thing.
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G8r
Posted 2010-06-09 10:15 AM (#370290 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
November 2006
Posts: 3969

So Toby, since I make my own, do I have to send you a royalty check?

Good luck wit dat...
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-09 10:28 AM (#370291 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
January 2009
Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
Originally posted by G8r:
So Toby, since I make my own, do I have to send you a royalty check?
Just another dark, barefoot, hairy man toiling in the hot Florida sun, probably working on a mat in the dirt, just to produce a few, cheap knock off string tubes. There ought to be a law.....
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Gallerinski
Posted 2010-06-09 10:33 AM (#370292 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's
Joined:
May 2008
Posts: 4996

Location: Phoenix AZ
I don't get any royalties
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schroeder
Posted 2010-06-09 12:40 PM (#370293 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
November 2004
Posts: 4413

Originally posted by Gallerinski:
I don't get any royalties
That's because you live in a Republic. Bet you regret the War Of Independence now.

Darkbar is forgetting that when he installed the string tubes he did the internal reflective paint job on the bowl - that's what makes the real difference to the sound.
I'm meeting serge (Country Artist) for lunch today - I'm hoping he's brought me a can of the paint for my ute.
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Waskel
Posted 2010-06-09 1:22 PM (#370294 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



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Posts: 11840

Location: closely held secret
Make sure you use the white - the results are much more pleasing than the other colors. (sorry, colours...)
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-09 1:31 PM (#370295 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
January 2009
Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
"Darkbar is forgetting that when he installed the string tubes he did the internal reflective paint job on the bowl - that's what makes the real difference to the sound."

You may be right. It seems to give me a very natural sounding reverb when played unplugged.
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G8r
Posted 2010-06-09 1:35 PM (#370296 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
November 2006
Posts: 3969

The white's only good if the bass is too heavy, since the white reflects the high freqs better. Red is better for mid enhancement and blue to pump up the bass, especially in SSBs.
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Waskel
Posted 2010-06-09 1:56 PM (#370297 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



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Posts: 11840

Location: closely held secret
True. I found the white mellowed out the 1581 nicely. Blue was overkill with the deep bowl. Might try Red on the longneck to bring out the mids.
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schroeder
Posted 2010-06-09 2:05 PM (#370298 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
November 2004
Posts: 4413

When did you get a Longneck?
Nobody tells me anything.
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Darkbar
Posted 2010-06-09 2:11 PM (#370299 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



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January 2009
Posts: 4536

Location: Flahdaw
Blue isn't so bad on a deep bowl if you flange the bracings, but that's a job best left to the mothership to perform. Easy to mess that up at home.
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Waskel
Posted 2010-06-09 2:51 PM (#370300 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
February 2005
Posts: 11840

Location: closely held secret
Originally posted by schroeder:
When did you get a Longneck?
Nobody tells me anything.
Couple years ago. Try to pay attention.
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Capo Guy
Posted 2010-06-09 10:07 PM (#370301 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's



Joined:
December 2004
Posts: 4394

Location: East Tennessee
Duct Tape.
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Joyful Noise
Posted 2010-06-09 10:30 PM (#370302 - in reply to #370260)
Subject: Re: Helix's


Joined:
March 2004
Posts: 629

Location: Houston, Texas
Actually, wasn't someone doing comparisons between latex and oil based?

I never saw the results of that. Maybe they were overcome by the fumes.

I'm in the process of trying powdercoating. PAF.
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