Has to be light gauge...
DaveKell
Posted 2012-01-04 12:39 PM (#344860)
Subject: Has to be light gauge...


Joined:
November 2011
Posts: 741

Location: Fort Worth, TX
In an earlier post a few months back I told y'all about an indentation in the top of my 40th anniv. Balladeer. It formed on both edges of the bridge plate at the ends where it spans the three piece top. I was concerned it would lead to cracks. I noticed it within days of restringing the guitar with mediums. A few people told me they regularly string their O's with mediums, so I wasn't concerned - I just kept an eye on it. I recently went back to light gauge strings and a few days later the dips in the top disappeared. It was nice to end that concern, but not too thrilled that I'll always require light gauge. Oh well... it's time for me to focus my thoughts on the next O I will acquire. I'd give anything if I had never sold the Glen Campbell Balladeer some 30 years ago. Seriously - what was I thinking?
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Joe Rotax
Posted 2012-01-06 2:02 AM (#344861 - in reply to #344860)
Subject: Re: Has to be light gauge...


Joined:
February 2008
Posts: 747

So that guitar would be about 8 years old ?

That's too bad - certainly might want to run mediums on that sound canon from time to time.

Always wanted to try one of those to see if I'd like it and maybe the 1960s version too.
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DaveKell
Posted 2012-01-06 7:51 AM (#344862 - in reply to #344860)
Subject: Re: Has to be light gauge...


Joined:
November 2011
Posts: 741

Location: Fort Worth, TX
Yeah Joe - made in '06 but never released to a music store until a little over three months ago. It WAS a sound cannon with medium Elixirs and is definitely weaker with lights. That inch long indentation at each end of bridge with mediums... while it scares me, I will probably risk it again. I'm fingerpicking this guitar and miss the extra umpph. Never had an acoustic develop dips in the top with a different gauge before. I wish someone from the MS would see this and encourage me!
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