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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | I have been trying to chemically peal the paint from a Mahogany viper body that was coated in translucent black (barnboard plus?).
It just ain't coming off! I am using the Aircraft paint remover that has removed all of the other project coatings with 30 year old poly finishes.
A Heat Gun is next and eventually sandin although I wanted to remove as little wood as possible.
Anyone have this much trouble or have some insight? |
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Posts: 1900
| Do you know the original finish the factory used? Was it base cloat/clear coat? I have removed paint products from 50 yr old varnished doors and trim in a commercial application using a product called "Dads" paint/varnish remover, or "Strypeeze". Just apply it, wait, and it bubbles up and easily wipes off. It might take a few applications but it works fast and doesn't damage the wood. Paint removes easier than stain, because stains penetrate the wood and will take more application of the stripper, but it will eventually come out without any damage. The "Dads" product is the stonger product. |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | What I'm using is a one brush stripper similar to what you have said but not Varnish or laquer based. This removes enamal and Polyeurethane epoxy.
In the past I could coat and bag the body and in 24 hours there wouldn't be much finish left. The black seems to be a lot more pigment and less epoxy (more solid, less bonding?). |
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Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | Years ago, I had used this stuff from a company called Diedricks606 (did a web search, but no luck). My BrotherInLaw and I were doing a renovation on a mansion in TuxedoPark, NY. This house had SEVENTY-FIVE windows that needed the frames stripped. The 606 was a thick paste that you slathered on and left overnight. Next day y'take a putty knife and scrape it off into a bucket. It took 100+ years worth of paint down to bare wood with no effort. Stuff was a highly caustic alkali. In fact, after you scraped it off, y'needed to "neutrilize" the process by spraying the frames with a solution of hydrochloric acid, and then powerwash with 180-degree water. All of this had to be done with rubberized protective suits/masks - if y'got this crap on your skin, it'd start burning it immediately. I've still got a scar on my leg where I brushed up against a pail and some smeared through a frayed hole in my jeans.
Worst SummerJob I ever had . . . . |
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Posts: 1900
| The varnish/lacquer base products are stronger. I have used them on the nicest wood, such antique clear chestnut doors and it doesn't hurt the wood. Dad's works great. It will just take multiple coats. Maybe Ovation can tell you the original product they used, call the factory and talk with their sprayman, he could probably tell you. |
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Posts: 1900
| Cliff, we used gloves to install the Dad's product but it wasn't so caustic as to cause an instant burn on the skin, but it would blister you big-time if you were repeatedly exposed to it. |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | "if y'got this crap on your skin, it'd start burning it immediately."
It's the same or close to it. That's what surprises me because it smell bad, it burns but its not pealing!
9151 Kleen-strip Remover GAR343
I just printed the MSDS and I think I'll add a face shield to the gloves and ventilation I use. |
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Posts: 4413
| Napalm. |
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May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Holy cow, I used something like that stuff to get the paint off a used bicycle.
The previous owner was artistic and had painted snakes all over it. They freaked me out.
Anyway, I stripped the paint off in my apartment, with all the windows and the ceiling hatch open as well as the fans all going. By the time it was over I was drooling uncontrolably and stupified. In hindsight it was funny, but be careful with that shit. |
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Location: NJ | Woody;
How about checking for a local furniture stripping/refinishing company. Some of 'em have tanks where they'll just "dip" a piece and leave it for a while. I had it done with an old oak chair that had generations of warious forms of paint/varnish/lacquer, what have you. Had it dipped for a few days, and it came out clean. (of course, it came out in PIECES as the glue became non-existant, but how hard is putting a chair back together??) Being that it's only one piece of wood (and not too big), it may be cost-effective . . . |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | There is a pre-nup agreement with my Wife (2nd time for both) that I will not "rebuild or repaint" indoors, or anything closely construed as such. It sounds like you went over "the limit" with your bicycle!
I did manage to dust the garden pretty well when repainting the deck. I really wish I had draped a little better or used green latex. |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Good point Cliff!
I haven't had any problem stripping the Ovation solids in the past though. That is what has me wondering?
By the third application the necks and bodies are clear. I was using the same one gallon container for about 2 years. I just got a new can and I'm wondering if it was a bad batch.
Can someone send me a solidbody O to see if this is true please? |
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Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Light sand blast. |
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Posts: 2178
Location: the BIG Metropolis of TR | ....course,twist-knot wire brush on a 4 1/2" side grinder.....stop grinding when about 1/8" to a 1/16" of finish is left......then use your stripper.
You may want to practice on something of your wife's first as there is a bit of a learning curve......
.....Have fun! |
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Posts: 11039
Location: Earth·SolarSystem·LocalInterstellarCloud·Local Bub | Good to see ya posting again, Mike. Seemed like you you away for a while.
Woody, head mike advide if you go the sand blasting routen as well. |
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Location: Upper Left USA | Jeff, you got a head cold?
I will push on with 150 grit and a chicken plucker for the edges.
Pictures to follow. |
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February 2003
Posts: 2178
Location: the BIG Metropolis of TR | I hadn't posted much 'cause I've started back working on the railbuggy(feels like I've been livin in the shop) and also been having problems with my puter and my dial-up service....
....I'm posting this from my son's computer.
thanks for the welcome back! |
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Posts: 3619
Location: GATLINBURG TENNESSEE :) | I've done quite a bit of refinishing with both furniture and guitars, and have come up with that same problem before on a couple of occaisions. Try the heavy-duty stripper (OK guys ... no jokes)and follow up with some medium steel wool and acetone or MEK(Methelethelkeytone) before the sanding. Sometimes however, Sanding is all that works. The GOOD side to that is you can then stain/color with anything and get what ever effect you're looking for. GOOD LUCK! |
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Posts: 12759
Location: Boise, Idaho | I just finished sanding the front of the cabin with an industrial strength Makita sander/grinder. My arms are tired, so you're welcome to borrow it. Should take about 2 seconds to do the guitar. |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Before
After
Possible PG's
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Posts: 1421
Location: Orange County, California | :eek: Nice work Bro!! :eek:
I like the black against the mohagany... |
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Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | Yep, I agree with Fred. That black PG looks really sharp against the grain. |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | But it's plastic! Who uses plastic on guitars?
The unfinished veneers do look pretty light in comparison. I'll try some stain and a couple of finish options. Black or Tourtise would be my non woody options.
I found out a couple of weeks ago that Tom Jones, maker of the T.V. Jones pickups is just 20 miles away in Poulsbo WA.
T V Jones
I asked about what pickups to use and if they have Factory Tours - He said call and make an appointment! |
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Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | If you want wood, then maybe a black walnut. |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Its Walnut and its dark!
I threw some more pictures in the gallery under Projects if you are into the Frankenviper kind of thing. |
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Posts: 180
Location: Chicagoland | Nice. I always find your projects intresting. I plan on getting into such a similar hobby as soon as next summer. |
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August 2005
Posts: 130
| That's beautiful! |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | There's a good chance I may crumble and pick up an L.R. Baggs piezo Tune-0-matic bridge set this weekend and go for an Out-of-body-modeled sound.
Put a set of 11's on it and see if it can be a semi acoustic sound.
Anyone use this set up? |
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April 2004
Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | I have an LR Bagges piezo on my Warrior Signature.
I think it sounds great but make sure you wire it up to where you can go straight electric, Baggs or Electric/Baggs. I find myself playing it alot with the electric/baggs combo. Depending on what I am doing, it sometimes sounds like two guitars playing in unison...and electric and an acoustic. |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | That's what I'm hearing about.
The Variax runs off of a piezo bridge as well. |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Whilst investigating the L.R. Baggs T-Bridge I ran across this review:
Harmony Review for the T-Bridge.
:cool:
I am leaning towards the T-Bridge, Control X and a bridge mounted TV jones Classic.
I've already strung the M-viper and played the neck and set it up. Very exciting project! |
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Thick paint?