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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Can anyone lead me to a supplier of this "True Oil" I hear they use on the non-glossy necks? |
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Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | Here ya go...
http://www.birchwoodcasey.com/sport/wood_index.asp?categoryID=5&sub... |
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Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | Woody - Woodcraft also has it.
Mike |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Excellant site at the www.woodcraft.com
I wasn't using the hyphon so my searches were lacking! |
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August 2006
Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | Which project are you going to use the Tru-oil on? I read about it and it looks pretty interesting.
Update on the Preacher - I'm FINALLY finished stripping it... it took alot longer than I thought it would. I received the pickups. I'm waiting on the Logo from the mothership and a few electronics parts from Stew-Mac. All the metal parts are clean and shiny. I'm good to go!
I'll post some pics later on. |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Ooooooh yah!
Customer Service sent me to the www.trewax.com so I think they use the bees wax and Linseed oil.
The Woodcraft site has a Pure Tung and a True-oil which seem to be two varieties of non additive oils.
I was going to compare it to the Tung oil.
What did you use to strip it?
I better get going on some Pickguards! |
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Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | I used KleanStrip stripper. I had a bunch of it around as I had done some metal lawn furniture in the summer. It took at least 5 coats for the body and headstock... for whatever reason, the neck only took 3 coats. I didn't do any sanding yet.
I'm still debating the finish - how many coats of tung oil do you typically use? |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | One good soak/wipe, two-to-four days and a final coat.
If you can hang it for two weeks to "dry" that's good too.
For the necks I've oiled and played the next day. |
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January 2006
Posts: 1128
Location: NW Washington State | An article about using Tru-Oil: http://falcon.jmu.edu/~dehartcg/finish.htm
I haven't tried it.
-Steve W. |
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August 2006
Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | Woody - would you (or anyone else for that matter) happen to have any of the older style Ovation Logos? I talked to Kim in cust. svc. and he said they don't have any, only a newer type.
Thanks,
Mike |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | I have only gotten the Silver or Gold metallic stick ons. The older Gold Leaf looking ones are by gone.
I had considered investing in a rubber stamp to transfer the logo using Gold metal flake.
The newer style works great if you apply several coats of lacquer over it. |
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March 2002
Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | The old ones (logos) were screenprinted on . . . |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | "The old ones (logos) were screenprinted on . . ."
The squeegee and silkscreen method or the spray through? Pardon my terminollogy, but it would be cool to try and reproduce it.
I like the way it is faded in on my 1112. |
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May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Isn't tru-oil naturally glossy?
Anyway, tru-oil is great for a small pore wood like maple, and looks nice on mahogany, but on ash you have to use a pore filler. For a maple neck you need about 7 coats, for a large pore wood body, two to three times that. It's very easy to repair and more forgiving than polyurethane. You can make it really glossy if after the last coat you use meguire x. I wouldn't know how to make it satin ... cause I like things shiney and gleaming. On the unofficial warmoth website there's a whole lot of discussion of this stuff.
Oh yeah, decals are easy with this stuff, I make my own and put it on top of 4 coats of tru-oil, then put on 3 coats on top of that.
Another tip: Do not use too much. Put it on with the tip of your finger, rub it in, then wait about 1 minute then wipe it off with a bounty paper towel. Resist the urge to slather it on. |
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Posts: 308
| True Oil?
ITALIAN OLIVE OIL!!!! |
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May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Tru-oil is a gun stock oil: probably can get it at Walmart's gun shop. |
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May 2003
Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Tru-oil is 55% mineral spirits, linseed oil and polymerized soya oil. |
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Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | You should leave at least 12 hours between coats. And then depending on heat and humidity, one to 4 weeks drying, with 3 weeks average, before buffing. |
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Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Ah, short bursts fired at intervals... much more effective firepower!
I am sure that I should be a lot more patient than I am. My disclaimer is that you should always follow the Manufacturer's directions and actually print and read the MSDS info. |
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August 2006
Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | I think Kim said he was sending the silver ones... if you could spare a gold one, that would be great. I read an article somewhere on how to make your own transfers... I have to find that again.
I posted pictures of the stripped guitar in the gallery. |
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Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | Here's the link to making a logo...
http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/logo.htm |
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February 2004
Posts: 2487
| While your on the subject....Are the solid bodies such as the (1970's era) Deacon finished with Lacquer? And I see that oil you guy's were looking at has Silicone in it. I was under the impression Silicone can react (in time) to Finishes. I think it is mentioned in Automobile resoration articles to be careful of the silicon products to shine your tires and it's negative reaction to various paints.?? |
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August 2006
Posts: 3145
Location: Marlton, NJ | The oil would be the finish... I've never used it before, but it looks great on the guitars that Woody has done. |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | The solidbodies are finished with Polyurethane. Once they harden they are inert to just about everything.
I don't have a spray set up so I have to go with the hand rubbed.
The PG's are small enough to do spray can lacquer but I run into a lot of issues.. |
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Posts: 4389
Location: Capital District, NY, USA Minor Outlying Islands | Tru-oil doesn't contain silicone. |
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September 2005
Posts: 3619
Location: GATLINBURG TENNESSEE :) | True Oil IS in fact made for gun stock refinishing. I have a good friend that is a luthier who loves to use the stuff on guitar refinish jobs. You can put it on in several thin coats and it leaves a very hard finish. After my Celeb-Deluxe Bass arrived a few years back on my doorstep in the winter, it had a 12" finish crack when I opened the package. He stripped everything off the top, put new epauletts on, and refinished it with a light natural finish of True Oil. It now plays noticeably louder than before, without the multiple coats of laquer. I have since refinished several classicals and had very nice results. |
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Looking for "True Oil"