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Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 1300
Location: Madison, Wisconsin | I've often seen comments in threads about having the top replaced by the factory. Didn't we hear at the factory once that when they replace the top they replace the bowl as well? All your really getting back from your original guitar is the neck and bridge? |
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Joined:
June 2002
Posts: 863
Location: Central Florida | Bill, I don't even think you get your original bridge. But, that really shouldn't be an issue since I don't think the basic bridge style has changed in over 35 years. From what I understand, the "normal" procedure for a top replacement is to replace the top and bowl assembly as one unit. However earlier this year, I asked about the possiblilty of having JUST the top replaced on my '76 Glen Campbell Artist. The reason was I wanted to change the bracing from the original VT-8, to an A brace while retaining the original bowl. I was told it was possible and was even quoted a price, but I came away with the impression that the factory discourages this practice, except maybe in really exceptional circumstances like restoring an original shiny bowl or something like that. FYI, it costs less to have the entire top/bowl assembly replaced than to replace just the top. |
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Joined:
August 2006
Posts: 2804
Location: ranson,wva | i was quoted $500 from john budny to replace the just the top on my balladeer..jason |
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Joined:
July 2004
Posts: 766
Location: New Hampsha | I'm about halfway through replacing the tops on my '93 Collector's (top's off, waiting for the bubinga) and also on my custom Balladeer (fitting new Elite style top).
The '74 Balladeer used an amazing amount of glue to affix the top! The shelf that the top mounts to was glued crooked to the bowl and must be fixed before the new top can go on. The factory originally "shimmed" the top using even more glue - it was 3/8" thick in one spot!
Just paying for the time spent to get all the old wood and glue off the bowl would be totally cost-prohibitive, let alone removing the glued neck!
The newer Collector's was way more reasonable/easy to work on - the neck unbolted, the glue was reasonable, and it cleaned up quickly.
So I can relate to replacing the top/bowl as a unit as being much cheaper.
Anyone know what the factory does with the units they remove? I'd love to get a couple of bowls to strip.... |
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Joined:
January 2005
Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | My neighbor accross the street went through a top replacement. Near as I can tell (not near enough, sorry to say) she went from a parlor sized B to a full dreadnaught D. I'd estimate a couple of grand per. But investment well worth it and the factory seems to have done a splendid job. Dave |
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Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | Can y'post some pics?? . . . . |
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Joined:
April 2004
Posts: 13303
Location: Latitude 39.56819, Longitude -105.080066 | Yeah...both the top and the bottom bowl. |
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Joined:
January 2005
Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | Originally posted by cliff:
Can y'post some pics?? . . . . Oh, believe me I've been trying. Her husband wonders why I hang out in my front yard raking up and stuff with a camera hanging around my neck. Unfortunately I've only got 3x optical zoom. And the digital zoom loses all the detail. I just bought a 20x rifle scope that I'll try to affix to the front of my camera lens and see what I can capture. Dave |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Dave,
Does your Wife really think you are a bird watcher?
You may want to post this on your wall!
Tip: when using the rifle scope to survey your prey you may want to shut off the laser guide. Some Vets have been known to shoot first when they see that red dot! |
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Joined:
March 2002
Posts: 14842
Location: NJ | Well . . . if he's observing the Purple Martin migration, it at least gives him an excuse
t'be sporting his Purple Helmet . . . |
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Joined:
January 2005
Posts: 4903
Location: Phoenix AZ | Quit picking on Martins ... |
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December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | 
Don't make me levitate you! |
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March 2005
Posts: 1421
Location: Orange County, California | Oh, I quit picking on MARkeTINgS along time ago...
:p :D :p :D |
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Joined:
December 2003
Posts: 13996
Location: Upper Left USA | Ok, I blame it on the Pseudaphed, what a day... |
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Joined:
November 2002
Posts: 1300
Location: Madison, Wisconsin | Surely they kept the original tuning knobs? Come in Tokyo. |
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Joined:
September 2006
Posts: 713
Location: Alberta, Canada | My 1112-4 Custom Balladeer is at the factory right now for top replacement. When I sent it, I was under the impression that only the top would be replaced. I discovered this site just after I sent it and came across several threads which brought up this topic.
I realy wanted to keep the original fibreglass bowl as I felt, as was mentioned, I would just end up with neck and loose part of the essence of the whole unit. Finally, after several phone calls and emails to Kim Keller, it was determined it would be about $400 labor to keep the old bowl.
In the end, I'm getting a re-issue hand laid fibreglass bowl; altho not original, it is in keeping with the way the guitar was built to begin with...a compromise I can live with. |
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Joined:
February 2004
Posts: 1634
Location: Warren,Pa. | Picture this: Take a guitar over to the band saw...cut away the bowl and top about 2" away from the neck joint...clean away what's left from the neck.
Now just treat it like building any production guitar. I don't imagine a bowl costs much over $35-40 to the factory. Compare that with the cost of labor to try and save the old bowl. It just doesn't make sence from a money perspective.
I once offered to have such a job done to my friend's old Custom Baladeer. He opted to make a wall hanger out of it when he realized the neck was all that would be left of his guitar. He said every song he ever wrote for and sang to his children through the years was on that guitar and he just couldn't do that to it.
Saving the bowl would have to be a labor of love...or part of an enjoyable hobby. John <>{ |
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Replacing tops